vapor lock? or....Crank Sensor Fixed! - Page 2 - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 07-02-2006, 07:05 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bonneville94V688
whoa, whoa, whoa, whoa. I see a big problem there. You went to Jiffy Lube.

Back on topic, I really couldnt tell ya what is wrong. My dad had a 85 Chevy van that did that when it got too hot. It was odd and we never found the problem.
I know, bad going to Jiffy Lube...but they treat me well and its addicting lol. Trans fluid really needed to be changed too...it was hellavula dirty....

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Originally Posted by BillBoost37
Check wire connections, look over the coils and ICM for any cracks etc.

It sounds like it'* ignition related... only thing throwing me off is the pumping the gas and it'll try to start...gotta sleep on it.
the "pumping the gas" trick doesn't always work...as i found out today.
I attempted to drive the car down to my parent'* house [~20miles] and it died about halfway once the engine got a lil' over 200*. I let it sit again for 30mins...and made it a few more miles, but it doesn't last long when there'* a lot of stop and go.

First time it happened it didn't cut right out - but "jumped" [possible misfire?] and the SES light came on. It kept "jumping" after that and then died. Once it cooled, and I started it again - the light was gone.

We're gonna go with the ICM [Ignition Control Module?] idea as it sounds about right at this point. I asked a mechanic i know and he suggested the same as they'll shut things off when they get hot.

As a quick fix [and to test the theory] we're gonna switch the modules from my dad'* old '93 [SLE?] to my '92 [SSEi] and see what that does...
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Old 07-02-2006, 11:25 PM   #12
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another update...

switched the ICM'* and the same problem happened again after things warmed up. The temp did get up to ~225* then then i shut it off [assuming things were ok]. I then went inside, grabbed some food, came back out and the car wouldn't kick over. Let it sit for a lil' and it started again...drove it around purposely to try and make it die and it did around 200*. I left the car down at my parents house.....i miss it

my dad'* gonna be looking over it tomorrow and we might be taking it to a mechanic we know to see if he can find something wrong with it...
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Old 07-03-2006, 03:14 AM   #13
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Quote:
First time it happened it didn't cut right out - but "jumped" [possible misfire?] and the SES light came on. It kept "jumping" after that and then died. Once it cooled, and I started it again - the light was gone.
The light is gone, but that code should still be stored in there I think, unless the PCM has been reset or the code has been cleared it should still be stored.

Get it scanned for codes, should be able to scan it yourself for free at any auto parts store, they usually have a scanner available for customers to use.
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Old 07-05-2006, 04:02 AM   #14
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to totally rule out the idea...i brought a NEW ICM [$130 part ] yesterday and put that on..same problem occured.

Did some searching around on here for "Normal Operating Temps" [as my dad thinks my car runs too hot {~200 w/airflow - 225 sitting} - i say its normal] i found this thread: http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/...operating+temp

though i haven't been able to get the car checked for codes yet, i think the CPS may be the next [and hopefully last] thing to try. Hopefully i'll be able to get it scanned for codes tomorrow, and if we get the same code, we'll know what to do...

i'll let u guys know how it turns out!! thanks for the input.
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Old 07-05-2006, 09:35 AM   #15
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It'* definately heat related and good that you have something to go on. Check coil packs etc and wiring harnesses. Double check all your sensor around the throttle body etc for any signs of cracks or bad connection.

On the operating temps. You really would need to check the accuracy of the gauge with a scan tool. I have found not only inaccuracies..but a lack of being linear.
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Old 07-06-2006, 12:02 AM   #16
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I've had this problem too with my previous (89 SLE) and my current 93 SSEI.
It happens only when the engine gets hot. I solved it on the 89 by changing stats and regularly flushing the system.
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Old 07-19-2006, 03:16 AM   #17
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yet another update....

got a call today and my baby'* fixed. Turned out that it was the Crank sensor that did go bad...the repair took so long b/c the mechanic had a fun time trying to get the Harmonic Balancer off :P i should have the car back in the next day or so because the horn still has to be fixed so i can pass inspection.

my only concern now is that my dad took out my t-stat and i don't really feel comfortable running the car without it. He wants me to try it out [which i will], but i'd like to know in advance if there are any adverse effects to doing this?

Granted, if it was best to run it without the t-stat [for now], i would definately put it back in once the the weather started to change.
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Old 07-19-2006, 10:40 AM   #18
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Out, the car will probably never reach operating temps of 180+, therefore it may run rich...not good for emissions and may set a check engine light if the temp doesn't stay above...uh..160 I think?
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Old 07-20-2006, 07:39 PM   #19
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I got the car back today Feels good to have the bonne back again. I was basically a step down with my mom'* n/a 3800 olds 88.

Anyway, believe it or not without the tstat out i still get temps above 215*-225*. Granted, it took a loooong time to get up to ~200* [since the majority of my drive was highway] but once i got into city limits the temps got up there. Being that I'm still able to get that hot without a tstat in definately hints a cooling system problem. So i'm looking to have it professionally flushed/cleaned soon....along with getting the A/C recharged
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Old 07-12-2015, 05:52 PM   #20
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I had the same problem thinking along the lines of fuel /gas. Ended up being A/C fan motor, it was running but not fast enough then slow down and fast again. Getting too hot $24.99 Advanced Auto 10 min to take out & new one in along w/ upper radiator hose &15.
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