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1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 08-14-2005, 05:45 PM   #11
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No bong bong bong. That'* not related to VATS. Insert the resistor anywhere between the module and lock cylinder.

Be advised that it'* sensitive. OldBlueEyes went through this a couple weekends ago, and it took several attempts. The last thing I had him and the crew try was a potentiometer dialed into each of the 16 resistances (checked with an ohmmeter) and try each one.
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Old 08-14-2005, 06:27 PM   #12
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Just cut the damn wires and start the car.

Basically that'* what it came down to for me, even though we tried the resistors and a potentiometer. We didn't get the potentiometer to work, but we found the correct resistor trio, and we ran a couple wires from where we cut the little whites (in the orange) and used aligator clamps to connect the extension wires to the resistors.
The next morning for shti'* and giggles I tried starting with the resistors disconnected and the car fired right up, with the Security light on full time.
Haven't used the resistors since, but I still have them easily accessible. Security light is on any time the ignition is.
So far so good, but I am probably just going to swap the steering column rather than paying $175 for a new ignition switch and two new keys. Besides for me it'd be easier to just swap the whole column ($40 for used column with 1 or maybe 2 keys) and pay $40 for one new key if I need a 2nd ignition key.
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Old 08-14-2005, 07:56 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OLBlueEyesBonne
Besides for me it'd be easier to just swap the whole column ($40 for used column with 1 or maybe 2 keys) and pay $40 for one new key if I need a 2nd ignition key.
Keep in mind that if you do that, the theft deterant module will still be looking for the same value as before so you will need to have new keys cut reguardless of how many the used column comes with.

You need to have a new key cut to match the used columns cut but with the original pellet value....make sence?

LOL, I bet you guys just love theft deterant.
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Old 08-14-2005, 08:00 PM   #14
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We love it when it works. Thank god I haven't had problems with either of mine.
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Old 08-14-2005, 08:59 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1fatcat
Quote:
Originally Posted by OLBlueEyesBonne
Besides for me it'd be easier to just swap the whole column ($40 for used column with 1 or maybe 2 keys) and pay $40 for one new key if I need a 2nd ignition key.
Keep in mind that if you do that, the theft deterant module will still be looking for the same value as before so you will need to have new keys cut reguardless of how many the used column comes with.

You need to have a new key cut to match the used columns cut but with the original pellet value....make sence?

LOL, I bet you guys just love theft deterant.

Yup, I forgot to mention replacing the TDM with the column.


Another thing, if I were to get a VAT'* bypass module from, say, Best Buy, Curcuit City, etc...., would that eliminate the Security light from being on all the time? I am guessing it would since my family has had about 5 1992-1997 B-ville'*, Park ave'*, and Riv'* with aftermarket alarms/remote start with the VAT'* bypass module it (security light) was off.
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Old 08-14-2005, 09:03 PM   #16
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Marty, it sure will. All I've seen installed here in the last couple years did.
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Old 08-14-2005, 10:21 PM   #17
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Cut the wires. Light on, car fires. Wired in the resistor. Light on, car fires. No difference.

I'm sure it'* the right resistor, too, checked them out at Radio Shack before I came home.

Bummer.
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Old 08-14-2005, 10:58 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Dillon
Cut the wires. Light on, car fires. Wired in the resistor. Light on, car fires. No difference.

I'm sure it'* the right resistor, too, checked them out at Radio Shack before I came home.

Bummer.
Did you try with the wires cut, but without the resistors?
I don't know if it'll matter, but try disconnecting the battery to reset the VATS, and then try without the resistor(*).
If that doesn't work I suggest getting a VATs bypass module, unless you want to retain the VATS (a pisser of a security system if you ask me).
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Old 08-14-2005, 11:16 PM   #19
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"Did you try with the wires cut, but without the resistors?"

Yes, it fired and the light was still on. By the way, "resistors?" I only wired one into the circuit.

"I don't know if it'll matter, but try disconnecting the battery to reset the VATS, and then try without the resistor(*)."

Will do.

i "If that doesn't work I suggest getting a VATs bypass module, unless you want to retain the VATS (a pisser of a security system if you ask me)."

I'll check into such a module. Any idea what they cost?
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Old 08-15-2005, 12:10 AM   #20
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Sorry for th delayed reply (had BC open, but was talking on the phone).
I believe a VATs bypass module is something like $30-50, but probably less on E-bay (probably not worth the savings if the car is needed ASAP like I did with mine). I'm not sure how hard it is to install. Some say it'* a pain, yet, others have told me it'* simple..... never done one myself so I can't say for sure.
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