Ran all the diagnostics on my security light and it now appears it'* the lock cylinder at fault. I haven't decided whether to do it yet, depending on how big a job it it.

Apparently, it failed while the engine was running, so now it runs in "fail enable" mode, with the security light illuminated.

Also, anybody got a part number for the ignition lock itself?

Thanks!

You got the pellet in your key? Do you want to fix it or bypass it?

Yes, I have the pellet. Reads at 4.75 ohms (or whatever) I read how to bypass it, but if replacing the cylinder is fairly easy, I thought I'd do that.

Replacing is fairly easy if you know how. Bypassing is easier if you don't know how to replace.

Perhaps you'd be kind enough to elaborate?

To replace it you need to remove the steering wheel, lock ring and turn signal/multifunction switch. Then the lock cylinder can be accessed but now you need to disconnect the wires from the cylinder to the main harness under the steering column. Now tie a heavy string to the old wires and pull them out of the column letting the string follow there path. Then tie the string to the new wires and carefully pull them through the column. Now put everything back together.

To bypass it you need to drive to radio shack and buy a resistor of equal value of the key pellet -/+ 5%. Locate the two wires under the steering column and cut them on the lock cylinder side of the main connector block. Then jump the two wires together with the resistor on the vehicle side of the cut (not the cylinder side). Solder the connections and slide heat shrink tubbing over the resistor and wires making sure that the resistor is laying straight (two ends not touching). Shrink and done.

This is beginning to sound like less and less fun. :?

Since the damned thing is in "fail enable" mode, I suppose just taking the bulb out of the security light is an option.

Some questions: " Locate the two wires under the steering column and cut them on the lock cylinder side of the main connector block. "

1. Does this mean simply solder the two wires FROM the lock cylinder together?

2. " Then jump the two wires together with the resistor on the vehicle side of the cut (not the cylinder side). Solder the connections and slide heat shrink tubbing over the resistor and wires making sure that the resistor is laying straight (two ends not touching). Shrink and done."

So the resistor is soldered INLINE with the wires on the vehicle side? i.e., they make a circuit with the resistor in that circuit?

Thanks for your patience. Pulling the steering wheel sounds like a bitch of a job, what with the airbag in the wheel and all.

There are two wires (in one casing). Cut them. Ignore the ends dangling from the lock cylinder. Solder the resistor between the two ends from the chassis end.

Thanks, Will! And FatCat as well.

OK, got the panel off, located the wire (two white wires with an orange tubing around them).

I'm having trouble getting to the body side of the connector, though.

Question: Can I clip the wires on the column side and solder in the resistor? It seems to me that inserting the resistor in the circuit anywhere before isolating the ignition lock will work.

Am I wrong?

Collateral question: If VATS thinks the key'* in the ignition all the time, am I going to get "Bong bong bong!" from the alert all the time?

Waiting for a reply. Thanks to all.