55* outside today.
Boost needle, slight waver at -10 in neutral
-9 when gear engaged, stopped
-8 when in gear, and heater on, stopped
coasting down hill, foot off of throttle -10

This is slightly better. don't know if the o2 sensor helped, or change in temp and humidity. Pulley is stock size, BTW

Sprayed carb cleaner on all of the vacuum connections, (except brake booster, I'll check that one tomorrow). And soaked the SC connecting, flush, and gasket areas. No stumble. I still want tp pull that PCM box to see the cannister while I'm spraying it. it has some funky connecters holding the case down. i think I'm just going to yank them then figure out how to replace them.

I'm going back to the TB and clean it anyway.

Where is the EGR stovepipe connector in the L67?. is it in the TB?

The EGR stovepipe is under the TB ( I think it connects into the LIM). I was going to mention that I had a cracked EGR tube and my idle was what you are describing. I don't think you could have hit it while gutting an airbox, but it'* another good thing to check since it'* a possible vacuum leak not involving the vacuum lines you've already checked.

I think it might be your thread i found. According to other things i read, what I described above is not completely abnormal if ya have a smaller SC pulley. Depending on air density factors. Past that there can be electrical problems. I miss the electrical gauge and don't have a meter.

I have to go through everything because i'm introducing so much more air and it will stress parts in the line that appeared to operate OK under stock operating conditions. I know I'll be going over the vacuum connections a few more times. Which stirs another question....

The O2 sensor I replaced in the front bank was some noname pos. There may be one in the 2nd bank. Does the second bank O2 sensor affect induction or is that just for the emission read at inspection?

The vacuum readings you mention are reasonable. Let'* not forget..the gauges have been proven to contain plenty of inaccuracy.

The rear O2 sensor has no use except to test that the catalytic is working properly. No need to replace it, unless you know it is not working (there'* a code for that).

That'* a good reminder. The oil pressure gauge in my '95 SE has always been all over the place. Readings from a mechanical gauge showed the actual pressure is very stable. The SSEI coolant gauge sits just over 200. Scantool during driving shows it is extremely tight at 195*. (yes, that'* going to 180 as soon as I get caught up.) I think I read somewhat of a consensus way back, that it'* more important the gauges are consistent, than precisely right.

I'm not done with this. But, right now i think it'* better i finish getting the car up to proper BC maintenance standards. I'll spiff up the TB, change the PCV, fuel filter, T-stat, swap in a new power steering pump which i knew was leaky when I bought the car.

Let'* see how the car settles in. It'* been running on original plugs, aftermarket wires i never heard of, and a really pitiful O2 sensor.And the owner confessed he had been slipping in tanks of 89 octance during the recent run up in gas prices in our area (we are getting a nasty run-up here in SePA). I don't know why people do that. It'* a freakin' $1.50/ week extra to treat it right.

Really looking forward to getting her to some Meets. I can thank in person the folks who helped me , and I'd like Master wrencher(*) to go over her for any weak areas. Have car, will travel. Also, we fumbled the ball last summer, but I'd like to get a Meet going for the Philly area, and get the BC community started-up down here. Jeff Keacher noted we have the 5th highest state of viewers in the club.

Cool...pm Tracy and get your name on the list for NEBF.

Meanwhile, you are on the right track and the plan sounds solid for maintenance/upgrades.

And I'll just jump in to say that I agree with your plan to just replace all the rubber vacuum connectors. with the exception of that wierd tee and an elbow, they can all be replaced with short cut pieces of vacuum hose. It costs abot $2 and takes maybe 15-20 minutes of your time and then once done, you can forget about it.

I already replaced two full lines that had fabricated funky bends. They cost $20 and the dealer had to order them from MD. As you noted the rest should be fairly simple.

I was all set for a busy day off work-on-the car today. And realized that between the stunningly crappy weather we have been having, and my compulsive working on the car, I hadn't taken it out to just enjoy it. So that'* what i did. I even got a "Nice car." from some guy when I stopped in the convenience store.

I'm not one much looking for validation, but that was cool. Yet you probably already knew that guys who own white Bonnevilles are not only extremely intelligent and good looking, but are admired for their taste in automobiles.

This has been a very interesting and informative thread. Also, CharileMax very nice to read posts that are punctuated and capitalized correctly. : ) Don't know if I agree with you about the white bonne though...