Transmission acting strange under any acceleration from 0 - Page 2 - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 04-25-2008, 05:46 PM   #11
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As to additives, I'm just telling you what I used. I am not recommending anything in particular, and I have not used anything else to compare it against.
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Old 04-25-2008, 06:10 PM   #12
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My question is... Should we be worried? Is this going to kill our transmissions?
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Old 04-25-2008, 06:19 PM   #13
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Apart from suffering from embarrasing TD (Transaxle Dysfunction) when the light turns green

I would imagine it does everything that a combination of footbraking and neutral-dropping would do: Extra heat and strain on the TC, extra stress on the pump and shaft, premature burning of the clutches, and stressing the hard parts eventually leading to breaking something perhaps anywhere from the input shaft to the axle.
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Old 04-25-2008, 11:04 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by agrazela
Apart from suffering from embarrasing TD (Transaxle Dysfunction) when the light turns green

I would imagine it does everything that a combination of footbraking and neutral-dropping would do: Extra heat and strain on the TC, extra stress on the pump and shaft, premature burning of the clutches, and stressing the hard parts eventually leading to breaking something perhaps anywhere from the input shaft to the axle.
That doesn't sound too bad... :( There'* a thin, little flask that'* way under a quart, and it'* something about stopping shudder. Is that what we're talking about here? I've actually seen that "fix" a totally slipping Chrysler transmission to make it drivable again in under a minute!
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Old 04-26-2008, 03:50 AM   #15
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Item #60902 on this page:

http://www.lubegard.com/automotive/trans_atf.html

I usually get it like $10 off EBAY, but I've seen it on the shelf at Kragen for like $15 per 10 oz bottle
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Old 04-26-2008, 06:33 PM   #16
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Ah, I've seen this. I guess your Kragen is like my Advance Auto Parts or so.

The first thing I read about LubeGard is
]quote]Did you know 90% of all transmission failures are caused by heat?[/quote]

Here'* something from the Intense Racing website:
Quote:
Q. Should I run a tranny cooler?

A. Only if you're planning to pull a trailer through the mountains. Otherwise, we recommend against it on vehicles with the 3800 FWD/4T65E drivetrain.

We have dissected more of these trannies than anyone else in the performance aftermarket, and we have yet to see a single heat-related failure. Hard parts break in these trannies, and these failures will not be prevented by a tranny cooler.

Tranny coolers add unnecessary weight and opportunities for fittings to leak. A leaking fitting can let your tranny run dry in minutes and ruin it far faster than a little heat ever could.

Our trannies are cooled by the same radiator used to cool the engine. So running a colder engine thermostat will make both your engine and your tranny run cooler.
The point of all that is simply that Intense says our transmissions don't need to be cooled. Does LubeGard aim to help dissipate heat more than anything? Or is that a marketing gimmick because they can't explain to everyone why transmissions fail?
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Old 04-26-2008, 09:27 PM   #17
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I take issue with their saying our cars don't need a cooler.
Hard parts, seals and clutches fail from heat and pressure. Also oxidation of the fluid.
All of this could be avoided with a cooler. In the summer, idling in traffic, it makes no difference what stat you are running. You are cooking your coolant through the hot radiator.
I have never had a trans related problem with any of my cars that have coolers.
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Old 04-26-2008, 11:23 PM   #18
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All right, cooler time as well! 1337ssei put all metal lines and flares into his car for his cooler, so I'll work with him on it. Should be pretty easy, I think. What'* the factory specified normal operating temperature of a 4T65E?
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Old 04-27-2008, 12:11 AM   #19
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I have never seen a normal operating temperature spec but assuming that with the factory coolant stat of 195 and the trani cooler being in common with the rad, I'd have to assume it'* 195 F.

From a hydraulic point of view, the optimum temp for hydraulic fluid and circuits is no lower than 110 F and no higher than 220 F. Also the basic rule of thumb is a doubling of fluid life for every 10 F drop in temp.........so you do the math.
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Old 04-27-2008, 09:26 PM   #20
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Ok, I've got a plan of action. Filter change, then transmission cooler. That'll allow me to displace enough transmission fluid to have a redundant and therefore effective flush. I'll pour in some Seafoam Trans Tune before the filter change and take just long enough with this process so it all works out. After the fluid flush, I'll pour in the linked to additive. Any more suggestions? I think that about covers it. Thanks a whole lot for all this help!
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