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Old 11-27-2010, 08:20 PM   #1
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Default Bonne acting strange

What'* going on everyone. Lately, I've noticed my car doing something really weird. Every time I turn the wheel, my oil pressure and battery level drove and my lights dim. I took a video of it. Check it out.

[YT]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wL-OZfB14hk[/YT]

Also, sometimes at idle the battery will fluctuate. And when my wipers are on, it fluctuates as well. I don't know what'* going on. But it'* freaking me out. I feel like it'* the alternator starting to go back. I also need a new front bottom motor mount and a lower dogbone as well. . Any help would be greatly appreciated. I need to get it fixed soon. I can't have her dying on me.
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Old 11-27-2010, 08:44 PM   #2
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Start with cleaning the connections at the battery, as well as the other ends of the cables. Kind of sounds like you have corrosion.
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Old 11-28-2010, 12:40 AM   #3
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Might also check your power steering fluid if the pump is working to hard it could slow the drive belt down so that yur losing rpm((drp in OP) and slowing alt (losing voltage)
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Old 02-20-2011, 08:59 PM   #4
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Mine does the exact thing, still cannot find out why, i know the thread is old but if you found a fix please post the fix or private message me
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Old 02-28-2011, 12:54 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by predman View Post
Mine does the exact thing, still cannot find out why, i know the thread is old but if you found a fix please post the fix or private message me
I haven't found out what it is yet, but I will be going to get my motor mount changed on Wednesday and I'm going to have my guy look at it.
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Old 02-28-2011, 01:39 PM   #6
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please let me know what if anything you find out, ive tried alot of fixes and still have the problem
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Old 03-01-2011, 03:32 PM   #7
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I have exact same problem. Lately it has gotten worse but it'* been doing this for a few years. Probably the power steering pump/rack starting to go.
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Old 03-01-2011, 09:51 PM   #8
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I dont think its the power steering , simply because if i let the car sit and idle my volts will drop, i can look at my volt meter and see it start to slowly drop in very small incriments. Now what i have done is put 2 used altinators on it and 2 brand new ones, a new serpitine belt, new battery, check the battery cables, cleaned battery cable connectors from the battery to the altinator and starter and ground.

I also replaced the blower motor resistor and blower motor itsself, yet i still have the same problem. I know its electrical but have no idea where to start and the sad thing is i work for a used car dealer and they have a service shop but the mechanics dont want to deal with it, some work place huh?
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Old 03-01-2011, 09:56 PM   #9
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Something to check is the ground on the back of the engine. It'* a bit above the oil filter and below the alternator.
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Old 04-13-2011, 07:36 AM   #10
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I'm also having the voltmeter/oil pressure gauge fluctuations. My car is a 99 SLE NA (149,000 miles), and like 99BonneSLE, I first noticed the problem when moving the steering wheel. But after further testing with the car stationary in drive, I found the voltage would drop if I started turning on electrical accessories, such as the A/C fans to high speed, the rear window defroster, etc. With these on, the needle would drop to just above the bottom red zone on the gauge. Please note that these voltage drops are quite intermittent. Sometimes, I can turn on all accessories at idle and the voltmeter barely moves, while at other times, the voltage drops below 12 V.

Along with the voltage problem, I'm also experiencing an engine stalling problem (not sure if the two are related). It first started with DTC 0101 (air mass meter circuit range problem), where the engine would not idle at all. I brought the car to a shop that replaced the air mass meter with a used unit. The stalling problem did not occur for two weeks and then DTC 0102 (air mass meter low signal) started intermittently occurring under varying conditions, i.e., when the outside temperature is hot or cold, or immediately after a cold start or after I have been driving for a while. I may go 2-3 days with no problem and then the CEL illuminates. Once the CEL is on, the stalling problem occurs when I release the throttle, as when I am negotiating a sharp curve, slowing for traffic, or coasting down a hill. Sometimes the engine stalls immediately, while at other times, the tach shows the engine speed fluctuating from almost zero to just over 1000 rpm several times before finally stalling. During the period of engine speed fluctuation, the voltmeter drops to approx. 12 V and the headlights noticeably dim. When I increase engine speed, the voltmeter slowly returns to a normal reading of approx. 14V.

After the engine stalls, I can drive the car by keeping the throttle open slightly with the right foot while braking with the left (talk about coordination). After approximately 30-60 secs, the engine stops stalling and runs normally again. At other times when the CEL is on, there are no discernible drivability issues.

As well, every so often when the car is started, the engine starts but then idles rough for a minute or so and then the engine speed flairs to 1500 and settles down to a normal idle.

I am also getting DTC 0442 (slow evap leak), sometimes with 0102, other times alone. I have plugged the vac line from the throttle body to the evap purge valve to isolate this system and the 0102 fault still occurs.

All this intermittency and varying failure conditions have made it quite difficult to diagnosis.

Here'* a list of checks I have performed to date.
- sprayed all vacuum hoses, EGR tubes, and UIM and LIM joints with carb cleaner and found no vacuum leaks
- cleaned all engine compartment grounds and both ends of the positive and negative battery cables (nothing showed evidence of any excessive corrosion)
- replaced the air mass meter with a known-good used unit
- checked the air mass meter 12V, ground, and signal wires for continuity and all were fine
- checked for proper voltages and grounds for the throttle position sensor, idle air control valve, and manifold pressure sensor, all OK
- connected an ohmmeter to the throttle position sensor and operated the throttle from fully closed to open and the meter showed a smooth progression
- checked all connectors for the above-named components and the PCM for corrosion and/or bent pins with no problems found
- checked for corrosion and/or bent pins on the ignition coils and ignition control module, with no problems found
- drove the car with the air mass meter unplugged with no difference in drivability noted
- replaced the alternator with a rebuilt unit
- inspected the RH side firewall connector (C101) and found no evidence of bent/broken pins or corrosion.

Does anyone have any ideas as to what could cause the voltmeter to intermittently read low at idle? At this point I'm not sure if the idle problems are caused by the low voltage reading, or vice versa.

Any thoughts or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
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