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1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 04-04-2008, 11:03 AM   #11
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There'* really nothing you can do to clean the injectors that will have any effect on them.

Remove all 6 still in the rail. Then remove them from the rail. Soak them in injector cleaner if you like while you do the other work. Swirl 'em around a bit to make sure you displace any air pockets.

That'* just a 'protocol' thing though. In order to 'clean' fuel injectors properly, you need to replace the filter baskets (usually a shop thing) and run them through proprietary equipment with magic sauce for an extended period of time.

Modern fuels should keep the internals squeaky clean for the most part. Don't freak at the oil/carbon on the ends. That'* normal (PCV/EGR/fuel reversion gunk).
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Old 04-10-2008, 10:04 AM   #12
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so i got the first LIM gasket from NAPA, and it did not look like the pics I have seen from you guys, or online. But the part number was correct ( ms 94918-1, fel pro ).

I ordered the same exact model numbr from autopartswarehouse, and it looks like the right gasket ( however after matching them up, they are BOTH FELPRO, but completely different , YET completely the same if that makes sense)


Which one is the better one? Which one installs easier? Is the water pump that much MORE trouble to do if ALREADY doing
1. LIM gasket
2. Valve Cover Gasket
3. Oil Pan Gasket
4. */C Swap

Also, is THIS the coolant bypass I should replace? This AND/OR a fitting? ( Barbed " L" plastic bracket ? ) or replace BOTH things ?



Thanks guys
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Old 04-10-2008, 11:49 AM   #13
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The gaskets on the right are the correct FelPro gaskets.

Replace that bypass hose for good measure, but it'* the STRAIGHT barbed plastic fitting in the end of the LIM that is the issue.

Look at this pic:
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See the manfiold in the lower part of the pic? You'll see a replacement METAL fitting sitting on it.

Look at the manifold above (just came out of the car). You can just see it sticking out the left side below the old gaskets. Under the nosedrive. It screws into the LIM.
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Old 04-10-2008, 11:45 PM   #14
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Is the water pump that much MORE trouble to do if ALREADY doing
1. LIM gasket
2. Valve Cover Gasket
3. Oil Pan Gasket
4. */C Swap

And does that hose look like the correct one? ( to go on the fitting )

TRYING to figure out if 2 guys can:
Start the tear down from 5-8pm Saturday night, then return to the car Sunday morning at 8, and finish the job by 6pm or so.

Entire job includes:
Install REMAN */C, new thermostat gasket, new oil pan gasket, new valve cover gaskets, install water pump, with new gasket, new LIM gasket, and to clean all parts appropriately and install everything correctly, including another oil cange after 15 miles to ensure all coolant is out.. ohh and inspect the engine mounts because atleast ONE is badddd.

Am i being realistic in that timeline? about 12 hours total. 1 guy good at listening ( me) and 1 guy who has worked on diesel turbo yacht motors for 10 years. ( decent mechaincal experience )

ANy last words of encouragement? or TIPS.. what about order of tackling the jobs?

ANY help will be appreciated.

I will be taking meticulous pictures and will be documenting the crap out of this ( hopefully to be added to tech info upon completion )

Can anyone think of anything that I should take a picture of while fully disassembled? ( items that people refer to but no pics are on the forum yet? )

Let me know.. I will do what I can.
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Old 04-10-2008, 11:48 PM   #15
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The hose looks correct, but you'll need new clamps. OEM hose has OEM clamps riveted to it.

The water pump won't be harder or easier with that work. It'* unrelated entirely. Your torque-axis mount will have to come off, which means jacking the motor up. Don't jack too far or you will damage the tripod joint of the right side axle.
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Old 04-10-2008, 11:55 PM   #16
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I thought it would be easier ( water pump ) with all the stuff removed ( easier to get to ).

Should i do the oil pan gasket after the water pump ( jacking up of the engine? ) Any tips or points i should look for or avoid?
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Old 04-11-2008, 12:05 AM   #17
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Water pump is unelated in all respects to any of your planned work. The oil pan gasket as well.

Personally, I'd do all the work EXCEPT the pan gasket, and do it about 50 miles after everything else is done when you need to change your oil anyway.
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Old 04-11-2008, 12:13 AM   #18
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if the water pump is completely a different job, than i may pass on that for the moment too. It would be just as easy ( or hard ) to do to a fully assembled engine?

Oil pan gasket the next day makes sense...
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Old 04-11-2008, 12:37 AM   #19
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Sounds to me like the water pump isn't an issue. So why are you changing it?

If it'* an issue, do it when you have all the tools out. If you have it already, do it now when you have all the tools out.
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