I have a 1993 SSEi. I have ordered valve cover gaskets, UIM gasket, */C ( from canadian supercharger, with gaskets ) and an oil pan gasket.

I want this car to be TIP TOP. ( already did coils, wires, plugs, pcv, coolant flush, tstat, etc) 111,000 miles on the clock

1. What do i need to look out for ( what mistakes did you guys encounter ) while doing this job.

2. What else should be done with the engine broken down this way?
2a. EGR valve ( location and procedure? )
2b Coolant tubes needing to be replaced while doing REAR valve cover gaskets, part number anyone? )


Any tips or things you know to make this as easy as can be?

Change your oil when you are done. *Slaps self on the forehead after realizing you will have to anyway when you change your oil pan gasket*

The tubes hardly ever need replacement...but the o-rings do.

EGR valve is up front. It'* the thingie with the three solenoids in a circular group. Might be covered up with a plastic cover that looks like a mushroom cap.

Even if he is replacing the oil pan at the time of the top end gasket replacement, I would still highly recommend changing the oil 15-20 miles (TOPS) after putting everything back together.
Reason: I've seen too many LIM gasket replacements, or lack there of, cause a bearing to go out.
I have been telling the local shops that have been doing these for 3800'* to drain the coolant completely before removing the top end and then changing the oil when everything is back together, as well as a follow-up change in the first 10-15 miles to make sure all/any of the coolant gets taken out of the engine or there is a good chance they'll be paying for a new engine.
Funny thing is, the first time I told a shop they should do that they called another shop to see what they thought of that procedure and they said they had a 2002 SSEi they were looking for a motor for because they had done a LIM gasket job and 500 miles later it spun a bearing.
My suggested method is now the practiced method for these two shops, as well as a couple others in the area who I've mentioned this to.

i would add the LIM gasket to your list and do it all at once. idk if it was mentioned before, but i would start by draining the coolant.

The coolant bypass fitting SHOULD be replaced. It'* probably plastic. Replace it with a metal fitting.

Did you get the o-rings for under the supercharger as well as the gasket? What about the TB gasket? Fuel injector o-rings?

""" Even if he is replacing the oil pan at the time of the top end gasket replacement, I would still highly recommend changing the oil 15-20 miles (TOPS) after putting everything back together.
Reason: I've seen too many LIM gasket replacements, or lack there of, cause a bearing to go out.
I have been telling the local shops that have been doing these for 3800'* to drain the coolant completely before removing the top end and then changing the oil when everything is back together, as well as a follow-up change in the first 10-15 miles to make sure all/any of the coolant gets taken out of the engine or there is a good chance they'll be paying for a new engine.
Funny thing is, the first time I told a shop they should do that they called another shop to see what they thought of that procedure and they said they had a 2002 SSEi they were looking for a motor for because they had done a LIM gasket job and 500 miles later it spun a bearing.
My suggested method is now the practiced method for these two shops, as well as a couple others in the area who I've mentioned this to.
"""

I dont get what the significance of draining the coolant completely would be over just letting out a half gallon so it does not go everywhere?

1.What causes you to spin the bearing?

2. why does ALL the coolant need to be drained

3. coolant bypass fitting? is that the on with the alternantor bracket?

like this? http://www.zzperformance.com/grand_p...sg=1&catid=103

4. yes i have the o rings and */c and tb gaskets

Theres alot of coolant stored on the lower intake, change those gaskets as well when you swap superchargers, you save money in the long run. drain all the coolant and mark all the bolts down were they taken from its a few hour job, just dont rush it good luck I just did the whole process last weekend, fun fun

1. antifreeze in the oil will prevent the oil from lubricating, and damage internals

2. you can drain the level lower than the heater hoses, but you aren't really saving much. besides if its been close to, or more than a year, you should do a coolant flush anyway. and if it has new coolant, then drain it to a clean container and re-use it.

3. directly under the sc nosedrive, in the LIM is a plastic hose barb. it has a small "*" type hose that goes to the timing cover, just above the waterpump. you can find a new one in the HELP section for about 5 bucks.

4 do you have the 12 o-rings for the injectors, as well as the 2 near the tb side of the sc?

part number 56359
http://www.dormanproducts.com/cgi-bi...59&vtime=24334

"" do you have the 12 o-rings for the injectors, as well as the 2 near the tb side of the sc? ""

I have the two yellow o rings that came with the new SC if those are the 2 near the TB side of the SC.

I have no yet ordered the 12 for the injectors.. can they stay attached to the fuel rail and all come off together?

Is there anything i can do as far as cleaning the injectors safely ?