My 95 has been stalling quite a bit lately (originally I posted this a few months ago) and was recommended I replace my batt cables because of corrosion. I did, that did not help the problem. The problem was random stalling, did not matter what speed I was going frwy or around town. It would restart right away afterwards and run normally.

I took it to the dealer to read the computer, and here is what they said:

4 codes,
pass key fuel enable
trans range switch high
trans range switch low
cruise control switch.

The service advisor said the tech was going to disable the pass key/security and see if that helped any. How does one do this? I can do this myself, but just need to know the best way.

If anybody has any other insight to what these codes might mean related to my problem please let me know.

There is a link for a bunch of your wireing up by the fire wall. This looks something like two forks stuck together (interlocking). A bunch of Bonnevilles have had the stalling problem from this part being faulty. I picked one up at a junk yard for like $20 and it solved the problem! If you can't figure out where it'* at, I will call my buddy and ask him the proper name for the part. All these codes usually will pop, because everything is reseting after every time it gets moved. Once it gets a good connection again then the car will run and not stall, until it gets lose from driving. Does it act like it is completely dead sometimes, like it wont turn back over at all? If so that is more than likely the problem. Hope this is some help!

Thanks for the quick reply 97, what it is doing is when I do stall/cut out I notice the volt guage drop down to 10 or so then come back up and the engine will keep running. The dash bells go off at the same time, like the key was shut off and then reconnected. Weird, I am having a problem with this for a while now :(

I replaced the positive cable to the junction box/fuse boxes on the firewall, is this what you are talking about?

I think I am having the same problem with me 94 bonneville. I starts and runs fine. On the way to work I can be cruising 70 mph and all of a sudden it just shutts off. Doesnt act like it is out of gas, no sputtering or anything but more like someone shut off the key, all the lights come on, I put the car in nutrual while coasting and hit the key and it starts right up and down the road I go. this may happen 1,2,3 times a day. Now it started to not start in the morning. It acts like it is not getting any fuel or somethng. I can crank and crank and crank, than all of a sudden it starts up and runs fine.

I am thinking its the fuel pump

Ya, that'* what my car is doing also, except the delayed starting you are having. Mine always starts right back up after stalling. When I find out what this is, I will post up and let everyone know so if this happens to another car, someone can do a search to make it easier for them to troubleshoot.

Anybody else have suggestions?

Check and see if you have a bolt in the center of your MaxiFuse Relay Center, and that it is tight. I had a problem like that in my old LeSabre (early to mid 90'* model) and clening and tightening fixed it right up.

Thanks for the reply, I do have a bolt in there and it was just cleaned up real good. One thing that came to mind was the crank position sensor, but no code was stored for this? I do have 165,000 on the original one, how hard is this to replace? I know I have to pull off the balancer, that should not be to heard to do. Heck, if I can replace the water pump and the A/C compressor this should be a snap

The harmonic balancer isn't the easiest thing to swap out. You have to get the correct gm puller to take it off (Autozone loans them out I think). While your at it, may as well check to make sure the balancer is in good shape and put on a new one if not. It is also nice to have an impact wrench to get the bolt off and get it back on.

I was able to use just a standard puller to get mine off. The hard part was finding the metric bolts to use. When the bolt is pulled out of the crank it will obviously leave a hole where the puller center rod would go. To keep from wrecking the threads in the crank with the puller I inserted a 2" long 3/8" ratchet extension into the crank hole for the puller to push against rather than the threads. An impact gun also helps alot.

i wanna say the bolt size is a M10 x 1.5 or a M12 x 1.5