1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

She starts! But now there's a clicking.... (w/ Video)

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Old Jan 25, 2007 | 12:35 AM
  #51  
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Originally Posted by jr's3800
Nope, its a right hand thread... There is a lot of force on that crank bolt
ok, well, I'll go at it tommarow afternoon.

thanks guys for all the help so far!
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Old Jan 25, 2007 | 06:53 AM
  #53  
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There is a dangerous way to do this that might help. I will only tell you if all else fails though.
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Old Jan 25, 2007 | 10:00 AM
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Originally Posted by BillBoost37
There is a dangerous way to do this that might help. I will only tell you if all else fails though.
ya make sure no one is around if you have to try this it can get ugly quick
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Old Jan 25, 2007 | 03:49 PM
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Did you use penetrant and let it soak overnight? Since the balancer is trash anyways, what about some heat on that bolt??
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Old Jan 26, 2007 | 03:27 PM
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John, per our phone convo last night, the 3 bolts that will go through the puller into the HB through the 3 slots are indeed M6x1 as I suspected. They need to be at LEAST 1.75" or 45mm long PLUS the thickness of your puller, PLUS the thickness of whatever washers you have to use to keep them from pulling out through the puller. I suggest some stacked washers.

Now here'* the tricks:

You may have to rotate the outer and inner rings to find one of the 3 holes, unless your rubber hasn't torn completely around. ONE of the 3 holes is 'blind'. It bottoms out. The other 2 go THROUGH. So longer bolts are no big deal on 2 of them, but on that one hole, if your M6 bolt is too long, you'll need washers between the bolt head and puller.

I've had these issues with both of my HB failures. Make sense to you the way I described it?

Do NOT use 1/4-28 SAE threaded bolts as suggested in another topic. They are not SAE. They are Metric M6x1 (1mm thread pitch).
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Old Jan 26, 2007 | 08:07 PM
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Sounds like the HB to me. Might as well replace the tensioners while you're in there, though.
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Old Jan 26, 2007 | 09:16 PM
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Bob, the SC tensioner is new. I installed it about a year ago. I believe he'* changed the ACC tensioner since then.
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Old Jan 27, 2007 | 07:50 PM
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Originally Posted by willwren
John, per our phone convo last night, the 3 bolts that will go through the puller into the HB through the 3 slots are indeed M6x1 as I suspected. They need to be at LEAST 1.75" or 45mm long PLUS the thickness of your puller, PLUS the thickness of whatever washers you have to use to keep them from pulling out through the puller. I suggest some stacked washers.

Now here'* the tricks:

You may have to rotate the outer and inner rings to find one of the 3 holes, unless your rubber hasn't torn completely around. ONE of the 3 holes is 'blind'. It bottoms out. The other 2 go THROUGH. So longer bolts are no big deal on 2 of them, but on that one hole, if your M6 bolt is too long, you'll need washers between the bolt head and puller.

I've had these issues with both of my HB failures. Make sense to you the way I described it?

Do NOT use 1/4-28 SAE threaded bolts as suggested in another topic. They are not SAE. They are Metric M6x1 (1mm thread pitch).
Bolt is off, FINALLY....

Bill, Both my dad and I didn't have any luck at Auto Zone or Home Depot Auto Parts trying to find something long enough. PLUS, the M6x1 will go in only a little ways then gets REAL tight REAL quick. Are you SURE that'* the right thread pitch?

I'm going to have to go to a custom bolt place in Tacoma area.

Why must they make these cars so complicated....
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Old Jan 27, 2007 | 07:59 PM
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john, i have those bolts from when i pulled my HB off.. i could send them to you if you wanted... guaranteed to work
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