Rubber Sub-frame bushings
...my last phrase was "installed correctly" Something is not right if you have to grease them to make the creaking quit.. I'd look deeper before I just juiced them up with wheel bearing grease... Personally, I have NEVER had them make noise.. and I have replaced dozens of these things. Mike
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From: Wickliffe, Ohio

Originally Posted by dillcc
Glad to see you're thinking ahead!
As for greaseing the bushings I've always been told to do it; I've never heard or seen any ill effects for doing it so I figure I minus well.
Ed
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From: Jenison, MI (Near Grand Rapids)

I believe that the bolts are 12mm, 1.75 pitch. Length is probably around 5"
Good luck finding them somewhere other than a junkyard or dealer though, since they're hardened bolts with a collar on the hex head. I tried Lowes, Home Despot, Napa, Autozone, and ended up at the junkyard. The junkyard is my friend.
Good luck finding them somewhere other than a junkyard or dealer though, since they're hardened bolts with a collar on the hex head. I tried Lowes, Home Despot, Napa, Autozone, and ended up at the junkyard. The junkyard is my friend.
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From: Wickliffe, Ohio

Originally Posted by theJMFC
I believe that the bolts are 12mm, 1.75 pitch. Length is probably around 5"
Otherwise I'll get all this stuff off of GMPD or the dealership.
Ed
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From: Wickliffe, Ohio

Originally Posted by willwren
Pull one bolt and measure it with a ruler and a thread pitch gauge. Or test fit a nut until you nail it.
Ed
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From: Jenison, MI (Near Grand Rapids)

Oh yeah, I should mention: Be careful removing those bolts!
I went to remove one of mine (the washer had rusted right out from under it), and it broke loose just fine, but then it got to some rust at the end of the bolt, and snapped off. It had rusted to about 1/2 of it'* original diameter.
To make matters far worse, it was the rear-most bolt, which has no top access to it'* captive nut, so I had to make access. It'* fixed now, but what an ordeal to just replace one stinking washer.
I think that if I had been careful, and gone backwards on the bolt occasionally when it got tough (to clear the threads), I could have gotten it out without snapping things. So... I just suggest that you be careful. PB what you can.
I went to remove one of mine (the washer had rusted right out from under it), and it broke loose just fine, but then it got to some rust at the end of the bolt, and snapped off. It had rusted to about 1/2 of it'* original diameter.
To make matters far worse, it was the rear-most bolt, which has no top access to it'* captive nut, so I had to make access. It'* fixed now, but what an ordeal to just replace one stinking washer.
I think that if I had been careful, and gone backwards on the bolt occasionally when it got tough (to clear the threads), I could have gotten it out without snapping things. So... I just suggest that you be careful. PB what you can.
Originally Posted by theJMFC
it was the rear-most bolt, which has no top access
I have this exact problem, pass side rear. When I try to loosen the bolt, it feels like the
nut may be moving instead of loosening. I only moved it maybe 10 degrees and stopped
turning. It seems like the nut is rusted on the bolt. So how can I get at the nut to hold it
while turning the bolt :? How did you handle it :?:
I have this exact problem, pass side rear. When I try to loosen the bolt, it feels like the
nut may be moving instead of loosening. I only moved it maybe 10 degrees and stopped
turning. It seems like the nut is rusted on the bolt. So how can I get at the nut to hold it
while turning the bolt :? How did you handle it :?:





