Rubber Sub-frame bushings - Page 2 - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 10-05-2007, 09:45 AM   #11
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It'* odd that they did that. They should be so tight that no movement is happening.
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Old 10-05-2007, 02:07 PM   #12
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...my last phrase was "installed correctly" Something is not right if you have to grease them to make the creaking quit.. I'd look deeper before I just juiced them up with wheel bearing grease... Personally, I have NEVER had them make noise.. and I have replaced dozens of these things. Mike
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Old 10-05-2007, 05:46 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dillcc
Glad to see you're thinking ahead!
I spent enough time smacking my head near them when I was doing the motor. So I figured I'd have them replaced when my trans was done.


As for greaseing the bushings I've always been told to do it; I've never heard or seen any ill effects for doing it so I figure I minus well.

Ed
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Old 10-06-2007, 02:23 AM   #14
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I believe that the bolts are 12mm, 1.75 pitch. Length is probably around 5"

Good luck finding them somewhere other than a junkyard or dealer though, since they're hardened bolts with a collar on the hex head. I tried Lowes, Home Despot, Napa, Autozone, and ended up at the junkyard. The junkyard is my friend.
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Old 10-06-2007, 08:34 AM   #15
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they are very cheap through gmpd also, like under $2/per
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Old 10-07-2007, 11:29 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by theJMFC
I believe that the bolts are 12mm, 1.75 pitch. Length is probably around 5"
Thanks! Since I work in a Machine shop I have a guy I can call about hardware like that. I'll see if he can get me a good price on some.
Otherwise I'll get all this stuff off of GMPD or the dealership.
Ed
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Old 10-07-2007, 11:33 AM   #17
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Pull one bolt and measure it with a ruler and a thread pitch gauge. Or test fit a nut until you nail it.
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Old 10-07-2007, 11:40 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by willwren
Pull one bolt and measure it with a ruler and a thread pitch gauge. Or test fit a nut until you nail it.
I had thought of that but given the state of the bushings and bolts I wanted to get my info from here before I tried to pull a rusty old bolt.

Ed
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Old 10-07-2007, 07:30 PM   #19
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Oh yeah, I should mention: Be careful removing those bolts!

I went to remove one of mine (the washer had rusted right out from under it), and it broke loose just fine, but then it got to some rust at the end of the bolt, and snapped off. It had rusted to about 1/2 of it'* original diameter.

To make matters far worse, it was the rear-most bolt, which has no top access to it'* captive nut, so I had to make access. It'* fixed now, but what an ordeal to just replace one stinking washer.

I think that if I had been careful, and gone backwards on the bolt occasionally when it got tough (to clear the threads), I could have gotten it out without snapping things. So... I just suggest that you be careful. PB what you can.
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Old 10-08-2007, 04:25 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by theJMFC
it was the rear-most bolt, which has no top access

I have this exact problem, pass side rear. When I try to loosen the bolt, it feels like the
nut may be moving instead of loosening. I only moved it maybe 10 degrees and stopped
turning. It seems like the nut is rusted on the bolt. So how can I get at the nut to hold it
while turning the bolt How did you handle it
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