The bolt on the engine mount is 18MM. I too had to grind the washer just a tad to get it back in. Maybe .005-.010. I just held it flat against the grindstone until it got got.

If you're going to do this by yourself, use duct tape to hold the belt onto the bottom pulleys while you run it around the top ones.

As posted above, the 15MM tensioner bolt is left-handed thread, so you can push it towards the firewall without loosening the bolt.

took me maybe 30 minutes.

I found it easy to put it on all the other pulleys, leaving the alternator for last. I hold tension on the belt near the alternator with my left hand, and move the tensioner with my right.

If there'* rust down there and you have never replaced the belt before, I suggest you use some PB blaster or at least WD40 on that stud and nut before attempting to remove it. My nut came off just fine. THEN I had to remove the stud. In my case the nut wasn't frozen to the stud.

Also make sure you have a routing picture handy before you remove the belt or study the routing carefully first.

The box my belt came in (Gatorback) had a routing diagram printed on it.

And as I recall, there'* a decal under the hood...?

If it'* not under the hood..it'* in the owners manual..page 6-67 or somewhere right there

Right. Just a caution.

My belt had shredded, the pic on the Gatorback belt wasn't correct, no pic under the hood and I didn't have an owner'* manual at that time. One of those coincidences that was pretty frustrating at the time, lol.

Was the club broken? I'd hop right on the club and get a pic from one of our helpful members if that ever happened.

It'* also handy to have a '98 SE right next to your '97 SE when you're doing it. Monkey see, monkey do.

Yup, that'* what I did:

'97 SE Serpentine Belt Replacement

Got the help I needed...

This thread has helped me so much! But i still wanna find the people that made that stupid mount!