The lamp monitor and DIC work very well if you take care of it. Clean your lamp sockets and use dielectric grease when you replace them. Mine has never given me any problems.

light was out.. burned black... i replaced it and all good now

air pump is under the hood? it'* in my trunk. on/off switch and a nozzle to screw the hose into, right by the trunk latch. :?:

correct the air compressor (pump) in under hte hood, There are lines that run back to work your ELC struts and the schrader valve on the trunk

really? ok i'll have to check it out... gotta do some diggin' around with this baby

Dangit guys... seems like one problem after the next and it'* only the first day. I think I'm in trouble this time.

Symptom:
Loud knocking noise at idle and low RPM. Once the car is accelerating the noise goes away. Also, the temp. guage gets very close to approaching red.
At first I thought it was spark knock (detonation), but it'* at low RPMs. Spark knock is the other way around. So now I'm thinking it'* something to do with the timing.

What do you guys think? Anyone ever run into this with their car?
(at the very least, i'm disconnecting my battery for about half an hour to reset the computer because of weird instrument panel behavior)

on edit: found this doing a search:
http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/...=426210#426210
.... This guy has the exact same symptom, but never posted if the harmonic balancer was the problem or not. :(

When it gets light out, pull a belt in either direction of normal or opposite rotation. Does the crank pulley move? At all? Pull the RF wheel, remove the fender lining skirt, and look at the face. I just did this on my 95 SLE/SC.



Second day I owned the 95, first mod day and track day for WCBF05, jamming a rod into the flywheel to keep the engine from turning while removing the balancer, Pdad installing his trans cooler:


Working on the business end of the swap. It took me 2 hours, but only because I had one bolt for the puller strip out in the old balancer:

hey bro... i just went out and tried to move the belt, no budge.

but i think i found my problem, hopefully you can tell me if i'm right...
the tension pulley (attached to the SC) is shaking like mad, and appears to be the source of my sound. I checked with my own measley ratchet that the bolts were "good'n'tight" and it still rattles like a ****. That pulley is definitely out of line with the rest of the pulleys as well. So it'* def. gonna chew some belts either way. But I know for sure (well 99.9999% sure) that'* where the noise is coming from.
So now I've got to find one somewhere and see if my mechanic can slap it on first thing tomorrow (since I have no torque wrench and no decent set of tools ... i actually broke a socket out there checking to see if the pulley was tight). I've also got to sort out this temp problem. You don't think they could be related do you?

Thanks for all of your help so far man, you've been a huge help!

Get the metal replacement from Advanced Auto in your area. I believe they have them, otherwise possibly NAPA. If you can't, then go with the OEM plastic design. All of mine are still plastic.

cool ... i'll definitely be calling them in the morning. does this sound about right to you?

also, what are your thoughts on the temperature problem?

Quite a possibility, and not unheard of. The only reason I don't run the idler in the metal replacement is because they don't offer it in the oversized version I have to run with my dinky supercharger pulley.

BTW, we don't have Advanced Auto out West, but I recall hearing my Admin-bud jr's3800 saying he got his there. He'* not too far from the Cape.