Problems with my 92 SSEi (aka 92 SSEi HUD question) - Page 2 - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 08-19-2005, 01:55 PM   #11
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The lamp monitor and DIC work very well if you take care of it. Clean your lamp sockets and use dielectric grease when you replace them. Mine has never given me any problems.
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Old 08-19-2005, 04:42 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LakevilleSSEi
The light probably isn't even out...just another GM innovation that flopped.

And your air pump is under the hood.
light was out.. burned black... i replaced it and all good now

air pump is under the hood? it'* in my trunk. on/off switch and a nozzle to screw the hose into, right by the trunk latch.
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Old 08-19-2005, 04:58 PM   #13
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correct the air compressor (pump) in under hte hood, There are lines that run back to work your ELC struts and the schrader valve on the trunk
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Old 08-19-2005, 08:08 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1993 SLE
correct the air compressor (pump) in under hte hood, There are lines that run back to work your ELC struts and the schrader valve on the trunk
really? ok i'll have to check it out... gotta do some diggin' around with this baby
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Old 08-19-2005, 11:57 PM   #15
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Dangit guys... seems like one problem after the next and it'* only the first day. I think I'm in trouble this time.

Symptom:
Loud knocking noise at idle and low RPM. Once the car is accelerating the noise goes away. Also, the temp. guage gets very close to approaching red.
At first I thought it was spark knock (detonation), but it'* at low RPMs. Spark knock is the other way around. So now I'm thinking it'* something to do with the timing.

What do you guys think? Anyone ever run into this with their car?
(at the very least, i'm disconnecting my battery for about half an hour to reset the computer because of weird instrument panel behavior)

on edit: found this doing a search:
http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/...=426210#426210
.... This guy has the exact same symptom, but never posted if the harmonic balancer was the problem or not. :(
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Old 08-20-2005, 01:25 AM   #16
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When it gets light out, pull a belt in either direction of normal or opposite rotation. Does the crank pulley move? At all? Pull the RF wheel, remove the fender lining skirt, and look at the face. I just did this on my 95 SLE/SC.

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Second day I owned the 95, first mod day and track day for WCBF05, jamming a rod into the flywheel to keep the engine from turning while removing the balancer, Pdad installing his trans cooler:
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Working on the business end of the swap. It took me 2 hours, but only because I had one bolt for the puller strip out in the old balancer:
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Old 08-20-2005, 01:33 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by willwren
When it gets light out, pull a belt in either direction of normal or opposite rotation. Does the crank pulley move? At all? Pull the RF wheel, remove the fender lining skirt, and look at the face. I just did this on my 95 SLE/SC.

[img]...[/img]
hey bro... i just went out and tried to move the belt, no budge.

but i think i found my problem, hopefully you can tell me if i'm right...
the tension pulley (attached to the SC) is shaking like mad, and appears to be the source of my sound. I checked with my own measley ratchet that the bolts were "good'n'tight" and it still rattles like a ****. That pulley is definitely out of line with the rest of the pulleys as well. So it'* def. gonna chew some belts either way. But I know for sure (well 99.9999% sure) that'* where the noise is coming from.
So now I've got to find one somewhere and see if my mechanic can slap it on first thing tomorrow (since I have no torque wrench and no decent set of tools ... i actually broke a socket out there checking to see if the pulley was tight). I've also got to sort out this temp problem. You don't think they could be related do you?

Thanks for all of your help so far man, you've been a huge help!
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Old 08-20-2005, 01:38 AM   #18
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Get the metal replacement from Advanced Auto in your area. I believe they have them, otherwise possibly NAPA. If you can't, then go with the OEM plastic design. All of mine are still plastic.
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Old 08-20-2005, 01:41 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by willwren
Get the metal replacement from Advanced Auto in your area. I believe they have them, otherwise possibly NAPA. If you can't, then go with the OEM plastic design. All of mine are still plastic.
cool ... i'll definitely be calling them in the morning. does this sound about right to you?

also, what are your thoughts on the temperature problem?
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Old 08-20-2005, 01:46 AM   #20
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Quite a possibility, and not unheard of. The only reason I don't run the idler in the metal replacement is because they don't offer it in the oversized version I have to run with my dinky supercharger pulley.

BTW, we don't have Advanced Auto out West, but I recall hearing my Admin-bud jr's3800 saying he got his there. He'* not too far from the Cape.
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