1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

Problems with a 92 bonneville

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Old 04-28-2008, 10:44 AM
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Default Problems with a 92 bonneville

Ok... My car has been down for 3 weeks and we don't know what is wrong with it. It just stalled one day when I was driving it and there wasn't any sputtering or anything like that it just stopped. Replaced the coil pack... nothing happened. Replaced the crank shaft sensor and it ran for less than a day and did the same thing. Took the car to a mechanic and the crank shaft censor was broke again. They replaced that again and it didn't work. Then it was a magnet for that that didn't work. I do believe they changed the computer and that didn't work. Looked for bad grounds and nothing was wrong. I have no idea whats going on with the car and it needs to get fixed so please somebody help me. I've been told it might be in the steering column because bonnevilles are known for that but I don't know.
Old 04-28-2008, 11:09 AM
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Default Re: Problems with a 92 bonneville

Originally Posted by s_traster
Replaced the coil pack... ...........Took the car to a mechanic and the crank shaft censor was broke again. They replaced that again and it didn't work. Then it was a magnet for that that didn't work.
When you say Coil Pack, did that include the Ign. Control Module (ICM) under the coils? And just for clarity, are you sure it was the crankshaft sensor the mechanic replaced again, or was it the camshaft sensor. Crankshaft sensor does not use a magnet, but a slotted metal wheel affair. Camshaft sensor, much easier to replace, uses a magnet on the camshaft end. And the Crankshaft sensor that you replaced, this is the one behind the harmonic balancer (main crankshaft pulley)? Just need a good point of reference.

All these being in the ignition, so the fuel system was ruled out and it was verified that there was no spark to the plugs?
Old 04-28-2008, 10:59 PM
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Both the camshaft and the crankshaft have been replaced. Its getting spark right now. The Ign and everything was replaced. Out of the pcm theres 2 wires that need 5 volts and they're getting less than 1. Sorry about not putting this before. I got new info now. A new pcm was tested and the it didn't change anything.
Old 04-29-2008, 09:25 AM
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Originally Posted by s_traster
Both the camshaft and the crankshaft have been replaced. Its getting spark right now. The Ign and everything was replaced. Out of the pcm theres 2 wires that need 5 volts and they're getting less than 1. Sorry about not putting this before. I got new info now. A new pcm was tested and the it didn't change anything.
If it is "getting spark right now" (at the plugs), I would want to at least to do a quick check for fuel. In prep for this, open the hood and pop off the decorative "3800" plastic cover.

Turn the key on without attempting to start.
If you listen close, you can hear the fuel pump run for a few seconds. This will pressurize the fuel rails.
Turn the key off, using a rag to catch dribble/squirt, depress the valve core on the schrader valve on the fuel rail (looks like a tire valve stem sort of) an will likely have a valve cap on it.
You should get just a quick, short shot of gas.... maybe an inch or so high. This won't prove your fuel system is 100%, but will at least tell you real quick if you are getting any fuel at all to the motor.

Also, it will help if you will update your signature in your profile to include the year and model, etc., esp. for future posts. thanks
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