Performance of 93 ssei. ** New Q's ** - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 03-25-2008, 11:30 PM   #1
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Default Performance of 93 ssei. ** New Q'* **

This car has not driven right until now, ever since I bought it there were problems with the performance.. after doing many things to the car it feels good and strong, but i have nothing to compare it to ( how it COULD or SHOULD be )

DID:
coil packs, o2, plugs, wires, thermostat, coolant flush, new tires, pcv, cleaned MAF and TB..

NOW:

Is it just MY car or is it the charecteristic of all 93 seei'* to accelerate like a rocket when you go WOT at like 5 miles per hr, but any other time the boost is NOT as dominate and pronounced.. i mean if i floor it at 10 it spins the front tires ( new ) and really takes off like snap your neck hard. I have a bmw "m" roadster in the garage and it feels AS quick for THAT MOMENT, but then it seems like the power is just ok, ( and kind of tapers off ) if you punch it at 30 /50 / 70 or so.. I think the downshift plays more of a part in the acceleration than the SC when already in motion.. I mean it accelerates but not the same.. it is however a nice smooth acceleration to redline, but just not as exciting.. sound familiar, or should it be that punchy at all rpm'* /speeds/ gears?

Also.. is it normal for you to hit the yellow on the boost gauge in a stock ssei? ( last 1/4 on the boost gauge doesnt seem to add much punch at all really.. ) I thought stock was 6 psi... maybe not that accurate ( gauge) or maybe a sensor or something is wrong..

Thanks in advance..
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Old 03-25-2008, 11:39 PM   #2
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Please answer these questions:

1. Why did you replace the coils?
2. What brand of O2?
3. What normal temps do you run, and did this affect your coolant flush, and if not, why?
4. What tires (make and model)?
5. What did you clean the MAF and TB with?

All these are important. Be as specific as you can, as your post asks more questions than it answers.

Your car SHOULD out-perform most V8'* you've driven. It should be VERY strong off the line and should be capable (with traction off) of burning both tires. Do this in a straight line only, and NEVER in a turn.

The series 1 is stronger off the line than the series 2, but falls flat on it'* face after the 1/8 mile. It'* a stoplight racer, not a freeway passer (although it'* better on the freeway than most other V6'* and V8'*).

Answer the questions above, and we can give you some better direction (and decide if you actually have a problem).

Stock boost should be 8-9psi depending on temperature and humidity.
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Old 03-25-2008, 11:58 PM   #3
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replaced coil packs * last thing i did * because they were ultimately the problem causing my stumbling and bad acceleration, replaced with a/c delco'*.

belden wires, ngk tr55 plugs, acdelco o2. all loomed and not touching anything

Coolant flushed because i changed the thermostat ( stayed with a 195, gas MPG ) and i left the bleeder vlave open, drove, and it flew completely out and poured ( steamed ) coolant EVERYWHERE. replaced with straight water a few days ago( as a quick fix), and decided to get the coolant flushed and replaced to remedy a poor mix %. Probably needed it anyway.. summers close and it gets HHHOOOT in south florida. PLUS it looked awful before.

TEMPS:
It ran up to the line that is AFTER the "200 line" on the dash, before and now again after the flush.. ( if im at a red light with a/c off ) driving or keeping on the a/c keeps it mostly near 200, but it does fluctuate all the time between 200 and the line PAST the "200 line" mostly. Its actally moving quite abit between these two. SEEMS like the fans at a stop are not spinning fast enough? Is there a HI / LOW feature on these, and what affects them. ( relays, switches )

Car is super quick to 30... then tapers off.. just put an intake on it, and all it seemed to do was make a supercharger whine more apparent.. everything else stayed the same. ( which is fine, paid 30 bucks for it and it looks nicer than stock atleast. ( plus i installed a siren by the headlight where the airbox used to be, which i could not do with it there )

Tires are just OK.. runway enduro 606'*... $85 a piece new.. ( BUT i got them for cost of 58 ) i dont drive too crazy ( just straight, no swerving or crazy cornering... i mean really.. its a BOAT ) and they have the correct speed ratings for the car..and a 60K tread life. Actually pretty smooth tire with a ton of tread. Needed to save here for the other stuff... Kinda had to way my priorities.. Got a much needed 4 wheel alignment too

Also put new sway bar end links in the car.. NICE difference.. before it sounded like chains were hanging from the car when i hit bumps.. best thing i did and the parts were $2 off a junker...

Cleaned MAF with MAF cleaner

Cleaned TB with TB cleaner ( off of car, and replaced gasket )

I think my valve cover gasket needs replacing.. how hard are they to do? Rear any harder to do? ( Slight oil along length, VERY slight ) may be the UIM gasket... cant really tell.. would like to clean thevalve covers though, so taking them off ( if easy ) would be nice.

After using a 1/4 tank of gas i got 10.4 MPG.. granted i have been goosing it the whole time bc im trying to enjoy the car now that it runs nice... but 10.4 ? the BMW gets 15 even when you drive the crap out of.. im gonna drive "normal" for a half tank and see what she'* actually getting.

Thanks again
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Old 03-26-2008, 06:33 PM   #4
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bump ( for answers to questions )
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Old 03-27-2008, 06:30 PM   #5
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ok.. i drove over 150 miles today.. mixture of city and highway.. no WOT really.. kinda just going with traffic.. I got 19 mpg.

Here'* the weird thing.. If i drove with the A/C on it never went above 200 no matter what i did ( sit at a light, idle in a prking lot, etc etc.

But after about 5 minutes of driving with the air up ( city driving, it climbs to the line PAST the 200 line.. on the highway with air off it seems to stay around 200 motsly..

So it seems to me to be an airflow issue.

Are my fans not spinning as fast as they could/should ?

Thanks guys.
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Old 03-27-2008, 06:49 PM   #6
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When your AC is on, both fans run in high speed by default.

When the AC is off (not in Auto), no fan will run until the car hits a nearly-dangerous temperature.
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Old 03-27-2008, 07:29 PM   #7
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I am interested in learning what to tap into ( and what signal is needed 12v or GND ) to make them come on and stay on at all tiimes. I have an extra switch already set into my center console for whatever i was GOING to add in the future.

whats the easiest way to attain this.. I thought i remember somehting about tapping in to PCM so you dont have to go through to the firewall...

Where'* the PCM, which wire to tap into, and what signal to put to it..

Thanks willwren,
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