Oil
Originally Posted by SSEBONNE4EVA
The mfgs recommended viscosity is allways best unless your going to extreme heat,
or extreme cold. Even then the glove box manuals change the recommendations.
or extreme cold. Even then the glove box manuals change the recommendations.
Bob the oil guy is still biased.
Mobil 7500 is good. Before I went */C-ed, I used that and changed about every 4500 miles. Back in the day, I used API certified regular stuff and changed every 2800 miles.
I think 10-30 is good for summer use, and 5-30 for winter. In the winter when it gets really really cold here in MI, I've almost went to using 0-30 (in my Explorers, Reatta'* stored in winter).
Mobil 7500 is good. Before I went */C-ed, I used that and changed about every 4500 miles. Back in the day, I used API certified regular stuff and changed every 2800 miles.
I think 10-30 is good for summer use, and 5-30 for winter. In the winter when it gets really really cold here in MI, I've almost went to using 0-30 (in my Explorers, Reatta'* stored in winter).
Cheetah- (about Castrol Syntec)
Syntec is good oil, I just don't like that they're advertising it as synthetic when it came from the ground. Doesn't seem right to me, so I don't want to support Castrol by buying their oil. OR Quaker State, for that matter (but at least they call their Q a synthetic blend).
daman- (about the ACE Hardware oil)
See, I have no idea what'* in the bottle. It could be crap, or it could be some of the best oil around for the cheep price. It sounds like it should be good oil, but I just don't want to chance it on my car.
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Here is a good page about oil, although it'* targeted at Motorcycles and their special needs because they run the oil through the transmission.
http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/Oils1.html
If you don't like reading, scroll down to "Group II and Group III oils" and read through "Synthetics." I would also recomend reading "API Oil Standards," it explains why newer standards aren't always better, just newer.
Another article: http://www.viperclub.org/articles/oilfaq.html
A discussion on Bob is The Oil Guy: http://theoildrop.server101.com/ubb/...c;f=1;t=013771
The statement made in the first post if false, but there'* some good info later on in the thread.
By the way,
Group IV = PAO = true sythetic = Mobil1
Group III = Castrol Syntec = Highly refined crude oil
And Amsoil is probably the best oil you can buy, but good luck finding it in stores. That'* why I use Mobil1: it'* damn near as good, and I can actually find it in stores.
Probably more information than anyone wanted to know, but Knowledge Is Power. Hope to see everyone making informed oil purchases in the future.
Syntec is good oil, I just don't like that they're advertising it as synthetic when it came from the ground. Doesn't seem right to me, so I don't want to support Castrol by buying their oil. OR Quaker State, for that matter (but at least they call their Q a synthetic blend).
daman- (about the ACE Hardware oil)
See, I have no idea what'* in the bottle. It could be crap, or it could be some of the best oil around for the cheep price. It sounds like it should be good oil, but I just don't want to chance it on my car.
------------------------------------------------------
Here is a good page about oil, although it'* targeted at Motorcycles and their special needs because they run the oil through the transmission.
http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/Oils1.html
If you don't like reading, scroll down to "Group II and Group III oils" and read through "Synthetics." I would also recomend reading "API Oil Standards," it explains why newer standards aren't always better, just newer.
Another article: http://www.viperclub.org/articles/oilfaq.html
A discussion on Bob is The Oil Guy: http://theoildrop.server101.com/ubb/...c;f=1;t=013771
The statement made in the first post if false, but there'* some good info later on in the thread.
By the way,
Group IV = PAO = true sythetic = Mobil1
Group III = Castrol Syntec = Highly refined crude oil
And Amsoil is probably the best oil you can buy, but good luck finding it in stores. That'* why I use Mobil1: it'* damn near as good, and I can actually find it in stores.
Probably more information than anyone wanted to know, but Knowledge Is Power. Hope to see everyone making informed oil purchases in the future.
Go to www.amsoil.com and you can find local dealers that sell it. I found on about 15 miles from where I live and going to put Amsoil in my engine in a few weeks. I also am thinking about pulling the oil pan and getting any junk out of there before I put the Amsoil in. I dont want to mix any old oil with the Amsoil. I know theres a motor flush Amsoil makes to get the old oil out, but I want t totally clean oil pan. I also want to use Amsoil tranny fluid and anti freeze sometime before winter.
After having a lot of people tell me I should go synth, and having a lot of people tell me it would kill my car, and having a lot more people telling me it would make my car leak oil like a seive, I made the switch to full synth somewhere around a year (maybe a bit more?) ago.
I'll never look back - it'* fantastic. It doesn't matter what the temps are like, how long the engine is running, it runs smooth and with constant pressure - even in cold starts.
And I run it longer than dino oil, so the finances work out about the same, actually in favor of the synth. Before they jacked the prices, I was buying a case of 6 qts at Sams Club for 24 bucks... 4 bucks a quart. They bumped it up to some 30 for a case now (yeah, because the price of crude has so much to do with synthetic oil, right?), so I buy the 5 qt jug at Wal-Mart for 20 bucks.
10-30 is what you should run, year round. No need to back down to 5-30 during the winter.
Oh, and oil filter: I recommend AC Delco - not because of my personal company affiliation, but because it'* a solid filter, and can usually be had for about 3.50. Avoid FRAM'* at all cost...
I'll never look back - it'* fantastic. It doesn't matter what the temps are like, how long the engine is running, it runs smooth and with constant pressure - even in cold starts.
And I run it longer than dino oil, so the finances work out about the same, actually in favor of the synth. Before they jacked the prices, I was buying a case of 6 qts at Sams Club for 24 bucks... 4 bucks a quart. They bumped it up to some 30 for a case now (yeah, because the price of crude has so much to do with synthetic oil, right?), so I buy the 5 qt jug at Wal-Mart for 20 bucks.
10-30 is what you should run, year round. No need to back down to 5-30 during the winter.
Oh, and oil filter: I recommend AC Delco - not because of my personal company affiliation, but because it'* a solid filter, and can usually be had for about 3.50. Avoid FRAM'* at all cost...
Originally Posted by mkaake
After having a lot of people tell me I should go synth, and having a lot of people tell me it would kill my car, and having a lot more people telling me it would make my car leak oil like a seive, I made the switch to full synth somewhere around a year (maybe a bit more?) ago.
I'll never look back - it'* fantastic. It doesn't matter what the temps are like, how long the engine is running, it runs smooth and with constant pressure - even in cold starts.
And I run it longer than dino oil, so the finances work out about the same, actually in favor of the synth. Before they jacked the prices, I was buying a case of 6 qts at Sams Club for 24 bucks... 4 bucks a quart. They bumped it up to some 30 for a case now (yeah, because the price of crude has so much to do with synthetic oil, right?), so I buy the 5 qt jug at Wal-Mart for 20 bucks.
10-30 is what you should run, year round. No need to back down to 5-30 during the winter.
Oh, and oil filter: I recommend AC Delco - not because of my personal company affiliation, but because it'* a solid filter, and can usually be had for about 3.50. Avoid FRAM'* at all cost...
I'll never look back - it'* fantastic. It doesn't matter what the temps are like, how long the engine is running, it runs smooth and with constant pressure - even in cold starts.
And I run it longer than dino oil, so the finances work out about the same, actually in favor of the synth. Before they jacked the prices, I was buying a case of 6 qts at Sams Club for 24 bucks... 4 bucks a quart. They bumped it up to some 30 for a case now (yeah, because the price of crude has so much to do with synthetic oil, right?), so I buy the 5 qt jug at Wal-Mart for 20 bucks.
10-30 is what you should run, year round. No need to back down to 5-30 during the winter.
Oh, and oil filter: I recommend AC Delco - not because of my personal company affiliation, but because it'* a solid filter, and can usually be had for about 3.50. Avoid FRAM'* at all cost...
Only thing I'd like to add. (winks at Daman for missing this)
The AC Delco filter I was getting had the painted label..not a sitcker. Per my sources (hehe) this is the cheapie Mexico made version..not the good one. Stopped off at the local Napa the other day and put a couple Nappy Gold filters on my shelf.
The AC Delco filter I was getting had the painted label..not a sitcker. Per my sources (hehe) this is the cheapie Mexico made version..not the good one. Stopped off at the local Napa the other day and put a couple Nappy Gold filters on my shelf.
Originally Posted by BillBoost37
Only thing I'd like to add. (winks at Daman for missing this)
The AC Delco filter I was getting had the painted label..not a sitcker. Per my sources (hehe) this is the cheapie Mexico made version..not the good one.
The AC Delco filter I was getting had the painted label..not a sitcker. Per my sources (hehe) this is the cheapie Mexico made version..not the good one.
Your catching on...........
the 1036 i hope????
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WickedJstr
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