Oil
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Oil
This has probably been disscussed a thousand times so i am sorry ahead of time. But i want to know what the best oil is to use for my car. What brand is good, what "weight," and synthetic or whatever. My car has 137,000miles. Could someone help me out? If you need to know anything else just let me know. Thanks.
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From: Chicago
10W-30
I use Mobil1 full sythetic 10W-30, but that'* just me. Penzoil and Catstrol are good. Amsoil is really, really, good syn oil, too. Schaeffer makes really good oil, but I've never seen it in any store around me and I'm not sure if they actually make oil for cars (they do for semi'*, though). I don't like Quaker State, don't get the Quaker State Q sythertic oil for about $2.89/qt. It'* cheeper than the $5/qt Mobil1 for a reason, it'* really highly refined crude oil. It'* fine oil, but not true synthetic, so don't think it is. Same goes for the Castrol Syntec. There was actually a lawsuit a while ago between Mobil and Castrol, and it ended up the Castrol convinced the courts that Synthetic refered to the properties of how well the oil lubricated and not whether or not it was formed from man-made chemicals. Go figure. Maybe cotton could be a sythetic fiber if it'* refined more.
I would also stay away from oil that was obviously rebranded, like Ace Hardware Motor Oil. You really have no idea who made what is in the bottle.
It'* hard to go wrong, just get 10W-30 and don't buy the cheepest oil you can find.
Look for the API certification label on the back of the bottle (although that doesn't mean too much now a' days). It should say API sertified SL or SM. My Mobil1 is SM. The higher the letter after the *, the newer the standard the oil meets, so it should be better (even though that'* not exactly the case, but the details aren't important).
I would stay away from the Mobil1 Extended Performance oil. They just load the oil with a ton of additives, more then they need to, leaving less actual oil in the oil to do it'* job. Seems counter productive, but that'* just my opinion.
I use Mobil1 full sythetic 10W-30, but that'* just me. Penzoil and Catstrol are good. Amsoil is really, really, good syn oil, too. Schaeffer makes really good oil, but I've never seen it in any store around me and I'm not sure if they actually make oil for cars (they do for semi'*, though). I don't like Quaker State, don't get the Quaker State Q sythertic oil for about $2.89/qt. It'* cheeper than the $5/qt Mobil1 for a reason, it'* really highly refined crude oil. It'* fine oil, but not true synthetic, so don't think it is. Same goes for the Castrol Syntec. There was actually a lawsuit a while ago between Mobil and Castrol, and it ended up the Castrol convinced the courts that Synthetic refered to the properties of how well the oil lubricated and not whether or not it was formed from man-made chemicals. Go figure. Maybe cotton could be a sythetic fiber if it'* refined more.
I would also stay away from oil that was obviously rebranded, like Ace Hardware Motor Oil. You really have no idea who made what is in the bottle.
It'* hard to go wrong, just get 10W-30 and don't buy the cheepest oil you can find.
Look for the API certification label on the back of the bottle (although that doesn't mean too much now a' days). It should say API sertified SL or SM. My Mobil1 is SM. The higher the letter after the *, the newer the standard the oil meets, so it should be better (even though that'* not exactly the case, but the details aren't important).
I would stay away from the Mobil1 Extended Performance oil. They just load the oil with a ton of additives, more then they need to, leaving less actual oil in the oil to do it'* job.
Seems counter productive, but that'* just my opinion.
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From: Somewhere different on the globe every month....
IMO
In the winter 5W30 (Mobile 1, Castrol Syntec, Vavoline Full Synthetic) in the winter. You do not need the viscosity in the winter. In the summer 10W30.
I have never had a prob w/ Castrol Synthec (but it sounds like BlownBuick has done his homework)
I don't trust Penzoil
If you can afford it, go with synthetic. In the summer, when you shut your car off on a hot day, conventional oil burns up in the chamber causing a longer dry start. Synthetic does not burn up at the same temps thus leaving oil in the chamber for the next start.
IMO
In the winter 5W30 (Mobile 1, Castrol Syntec, Vavoline Full Synthetic) in the winter. You do not need the viscosity in the winter. In the summer 10W30.
I have never had a prob w/ Castrol Synthec (but it sounds like BlownBuick has done his homework)
I don't trust Penzoil
If you can afford it, go with synthetic. In the summer, when you shut your car off on a hot day, conventional oil burns up in the chamber causing a longer dry start. Synthetic does not burn up at the same temps thus leaving oil in the chamber for the next start.
IMO
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From: Robbinsdale, MN
I use full synthetic (can't remember which brand) 10W40. Like a lot of race car drivers, I prefer seeing the higher oil pressure.
DO NOT GO HIGHER THAN 40!! 30 is recommended, 40 is usable, 50 is only good on a "normal" engine for slowing leaks. (In my opinion, anyways)
DO NOT GO HIGHER THAN 40!! 30 is recommended, 40 is usable, 50 is only good on a "normal" engine for slowing leaks. (In my opinion, anyways)
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From: Bad Axe,MI.
I'll make this one short,, Mobile 1 10w30 is well liked on this site,and at $21 bucks
for 5 qt'* at wally world,,hard to beat.......
@BlownBuick,
who makes ACE Oil,,
a company named Olympic,,,,,it'* the Midwest'* leading blender and packager of petroleum-based lubricants.
It has customers such as Chevron, Ace Hardware, Old World Industries, Briggs & Stratton and Viscosity Oil Company.
So it MAY be a decent oil........
I wont ask what kinda filter you use.
for 5 qt'* at wally world,,hard to beat.......
@BlownBuick,
who makes ACE Oil,,
a company named Olympic,,,,,it'* the Midwest'* leading blender and packager of petroleum-based lubricants.
It has customers such as Chevron, Ace Hardware, Old World Industries, Briggs & Stratton and Viscosity Oil Company.
So it MAY be a decent oil........
I wont ask what kinda filter you use.
DINOSAURUS BOOSTUS
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From: Enfield, CT
I'd like to add...and not to have this go off into the crazy unknown.
When the engine is up to temp in the winter say 195 degrees and is up to temp in the summer..say 195 degrees. Besides a slight variation in temp from the cooling effect on the oil pan... you should not see any viscisity differences. At cold start up though..that'* where it matters.
The manufacturer recommended the viscosity they did based on tons of research and other factors.
When the engine is up to temp in the winter say 195 degrees and is up to temp in the summer..say 195 degrees. Besides a slight variation in temp from the cooling effect on the oil pan... you should not see any viscisity differences. At cold start up though..that'* where it matters.
The manufacturer recommended the viscosity they did based on tons of research and other factors.
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From: Bad Axe,MI.
Originally Posted by BillBoost37
. At cold start up though..that'* where it matters.
The manufacturer recommended the viscosity they did based on tons of research and other factors.
The manufacturer recommended the viscosity they did based on tons of research and other factors.
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From: HOuston
well If you want to get technical about which oil is best.......
BOB is the Oil Guy site has loads of good articles. before my puter went and died last year- I had saved the article about an oil test they did. this site has loads of good information... A must for dino consumers and their toys..
http://theoildrop.server101.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php
BOB is the Oil Guy site has loads of good articles. before my puter went and died last year- I had saved the article about an oil test they did. this site has loads of good information... A must for dino consumers and their toys..
http://theoildrop.server101.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php