Oh Crap, UIM or Engine Failure? - Page 2 - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 08-21-2005, 07:12 PM   #11
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I'll see if I can recover the old UIM. It'* in the dumpster at my dad'* shop. Not sure when the garbage guy comes, I'll see if I can get over there tomorrow.

As soon as the engine quit on me and I saw the rad fluid was empty, we drained all the oil. So the oil and the antifreeze are all new. It runs great now, but I'm going to change the oil and rad fluid again in 1000 miles to get rid of any contaminants that may have remained.

I wish we had done the lowers but I wasn't there when he was working on it. Hopefully I can get another 50k out of it as-is, though. The car runs tons better now that the fuel injectors, throttle body have been cleaned, plus new spark plugs.

Thanks everyone for the help!
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Old 08-21-2005, 07:17 PM   #12
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Sounds like you're in good shape. Good luck with her.
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Old 09-02-2005, 02:17 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by willwren
Secondly, I hope you changed the oil before your crank bearings and rods rust.
How quickly does this occur?

(Suspect we had IM failure today and our oil is full of water.)
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Old 09-02-2005, 03:18 AM   #14
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Rust starts immediately. How bad or how long is anyone'* guess. The best practice is to drain it IMMEDIATELY. I saw one here at one time that rusted the crank bearings in a little over a week. Might have been an extreme case, though, or the bearings may have been worn/heat damaged, or scored already.
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Old 09-02-2005, 08:40 AM   #15
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Best thing is to get that oil/water out of there immediately. Even if the work on the car isn't happening yet. Drain it and get it out.
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Old 09-02-2005, 09:09 AM   #16
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Thanks willwren & BillBoost37 - will do now.
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Old 09-02-2005, 09:38 AM   #17
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Next suggestion is order the parts and get it fixed soon as possible also. Get all the water out of where it doesn't belong.
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Old 09-02-2005, 10:58 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BillBoost37
Next suggestion is order the parts and get it fixed soon as possible also. Get all the water out of where it doesn't belong.
Thanks BillBoost37 - now we need to find a mechanic, hopefully today, unless this is something we can manage ourselves? Used to do our own mechanics - but that was when things were simple without all the electronic stuff.

I see willwren is from Corvallis.

willwren - any mechanics you would recommend in the Sweet Home or Lebanon area? Haven't been here long enough to know who is good, and, trustworthy (and hopefully affordable).
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Old 09-02-2005, 11:12 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MLB
Quote:
Originally Posted by BillBoost37
Next suggestion is order the parts and get it fixed soon as possible also. Get all the water out of where it doesn't belong.
Thanks BillBoost37 - now we need to find a mechanic, hopefully today, unless this is something we can manage ourselves? Used to do our own mechanics - but that was when things were simple without all the electronic stuff.

I see willwren is from Corvallis.

willwren - any mechanics you would recommend in the Sweet Home or Lebanon area? Haven't been here long enough to know who is good, and, trustworthy (and hopefully affordable).
I realize that there are a lot of electronics on the engine, but an engine is still and engine... There are a series of things that need to be done... But the most important is getting all of the correct parts, as well as getting the Upgraded gaskets from the dealer...

I replaced my lower intake gaskets, coolant bypass Elbow, and upper intake... Had to do the water pump too...

If you do the work on your own you will be out a little better than $200... The shop will charge $700-$800... I could do this job in a matter of a few hours if I wanted to...


Have a look at my thread, there are a couple of others like it some place... May give you an idea of what you are getting into...

http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/...87bf3478babe64

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Old 09-02-2005, 11:13 AM   #20
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Quote:
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BillBoost37
Next suggestion is order the parts and get it fixed soon as possible also. Get all the water out of where it doesn't belong.
Thanks BillBoost37 - now we need to find a mechanic, hopefully today, unless this is something we can manage ourselves? Used to do our own mechanics - but that was when things were simple without all the electronic stuff.

I see willwren is from Corvallis.

willwren - any mechanics you would recommend in the Sweet Home or Lebanon area? Haven't been here long enough to know who is good, and, trustworthy (and hopefully affordable).
If I wouldn't get banned..I'd give you an address in Corvallis to tow it to

Actually..if you've done work on cars before and only fear the electronics..there'* nothing to fear. Bolts still look the same and gaskets still seal the same... the electronics boil down to this.. you can never put the distributor in 180 degrees off and you don't have to hope the carb is close enough to fire so you can dial it in.

I'm looking to probably do mine soon..I have a slight coolant usage and I think a little oil seepage happening. It'* pretty straight forward from everything I've seen and heard.
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