1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

NOOB Question... how to change the oil?

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Old Oct 1, 2007 | 07:34 AM
  #21  
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On manuals.

I've seen the Haynes, Chiltons and Factory GM FSM'*. The Haynes is quite basic and you may find most of what you need. The Chiltons is more comprehensive and still lacking in more advanced repairs. The FSM has every nut, bolt, fastner and clip torque spec. Even a corner light bolt has a torque spec. it will tell you the location and color of every wire, conduit and splice if you need electrical schematics..this is the book for you. The one downside to an FSM is that you will find a reference for tool J687264 only to find out it'* a standard torque wrench or another common tool would work for the situation.

For the oil change at hand.. the Haynes might get you through it, the FSM or Chiltons would give you the detail.

In regards to ramps. I like the composite Rhino ramps or the like. Lightweight, easy to work with and they are rated for more than our cars should ever weigh.
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Old Oct 2, 2007 | 03:29 AM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by BillBoost37
On manuals.

I've seen the Haynes, Chiltons and Factory GM FSM'*. The Haynes is quite basic and you may find most of what you need. The Chiltons is more comprehensive and still lacking in more advanced repairs. The FSM has every nut, bolt, fastner and clip torque spec. Even a corner light bolt has a torque spec. it will tell you the location and color of every wire, conduit and splice if you need electrical schematics..this is the book for you. The one downside to an FSM is that you will find a reference for tool J687264 only to find out it'* a standard torque wrench or another common tool would work for the situation.

For the oil change at hand.. the Haynes might get you through it, the FSM or Chiltons would give you the detail.

In regards to ramps. I like the composite Rhino ramps or the like. Lightweight, easy to work with and they are rated for more than our cars should ever weigh.
Rhino Ramps... The black plastic ones that are rated for 8000lbs? Are they really better than the old-school metal ramps? I was looking at various autoparts stores where I live and I happen to see some rhino ramps for $45. I was reluctant to buy them because I saw black metal ramps for the same price at nappa and I felt that the plastic Rhino ramps would crack and break over time.
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Old Oct 2, 2007 | 07:43 AM
  #23  
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I've got a set of them. I originally got them for a Honda Prelude with low bumpers. I've used them on that Prelude, sisters Achieva, Bonneville'* galore, my full sized chevy truck (4x4, 8 foot bed, extended cab..aka heavy)....name it. They are lightweight and easy to work with. And being rated for 8,000 lbs they are good for anything I'll ever consider putting on them.
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Old Oct 2, 2007 | 07:57 AM
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Get the Rhino'*. I have them as well (2 sets actually, one here, one at a friend'* house).

They are lower lift than the metals, but you will drag your front dam getting on metal ramps unless you 'lead in' with 2x6'*.

These will lift the front high enough for MOST jobs, but not all. You can put a 6" piece of 2x6 on top for an extra 1.5 inches of lift. I find that much better for some stuff.
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