NOOB Question... how to change the oil? - Page 3 - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

Reply
 
 
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 10-01-2007, 08:34 AM   #21
DINOSAURUS BOOSTUS

Expert Gearhead
 
BillBoost37's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Enfield, CT
Posts: 41,391
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
BillBoost37 is a glorious beacon of lightBillBoost37 is a glorious beacon of lightBillBoost37 is a glorious beacon of lightBillBoost37 is a glorious beacon of lightBillBoost37 is a glorious beacon of lightBillBoost37 is a glorious beacon of light
Default

On manuals.

I've seen the Haynes, Chiltons and Factory GM FSM'*. The Haynes is quite basic and you may find most of what you need. The Chiltons is more comprehensive and still lacking in more advanced repairs. The FSM has every nut, bolt, fastner and clip torque spec. Even a corner light bolt has a torque spec. it will tell you the location and color of every wire, conduit and splice if you need electrical schematics..this is the book for you. The one downside to an FSM is that you will find a reference for tool J687264 only to find out it'* a standard torque wrench or another common tool would work for the situation.

For the oil change at hand.. the Haynes might get you through it, the FSM or Chiltons would give you the detail.

In regards to ramps. I like the composite Rhino ramps or the like. Lightweight, easy to work with and they are rated for more than our cars should ever weigh.
BillBoost37 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-02-2007, 04:29 AM   #22
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 7
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
cosmic665 is on a distinguished road
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by BillBoost37
On manuals.

I've seen the Haynes, Chiltons and Factory GM FSM'*. The Haynes is quite basic and you may find most of what you need. The Chiltons is more comprehensive and still lacking in more advanced repairs. The FSM has every nut, bolt, fastner and clip torque spec. Even a corner light bolt has a torque spec. it will tell you the location and color of every wire, conduit and splice if you need electrical schematics..this is the book for you. The one downside to an FSM is that you will find a reference for tool J687264 only to find out it'* a standard torque wrench or another common tool would work for the situation.

For the oil change at hand.. the Haynes might get you through it, the FSM or Chiltons would give you the detail.

In regards to ramps. I like the composite Rhino ramps or the like. Lightweight, easy to work with and they are rated for more than our cars should ever weigh.
Rhino Ramps... The black plastic ones that are rated for 8000lbs? Are they really better than the old-school metal ramps? I was looking at various autoparts stores where I live and I happen to see some rhino ramps for $45. I was reluctant to buy them because I saw black metal ramps for the same price at nappa and I felt that the plastic Rhino ramps would crack and break over time.
cosmic665 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-02-2007, 08:43 AM   #23
DINOSAURUS BOOSTUS

Expert Gearhead
 
BillBoost37's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Enfield, CT
Posts: 41,391
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
BillBoost37 is a glorious beacon of lightBillBoost37 is a glorious beacon of lightBillBoost37 is a glorious beacon of lightBillBoost37 is a glorious beacon of lightBillBoost37 is a glorious beacon of lightBillBoost37 is a glorious beacon of light
Default

I've got a set of them. I originally got them for a Honda Prelude with low bumpers. I've used them on that Prelude, sisters Achieva, Bonneville'* galore, my full sized chevy truck (4x4, 8 foot bed, extended cab..aka heavy)....name it. They are lightweight and easy to work with. And being rated for 8,000 lbs they are good for anything I'll ever consider putting on them.
BillBoost37 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-02-2007, 08:57 AM   #24
Junior Member
Posts like a Ricer Type-R
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Posts: 10
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
willwren is on a distinguished road
Default

Get the Rhino'*. I have them as well (2 sets actually, one here, one at a friend'* house).

They are lower lift than the metals, but you will drag your front dam getting on metal ramps unless you 'lead in' with 2x6'*.

These will lift the front high enough for MOST jobs, but not all. You can put a 6" piece of 2x6 on top for an extra 1.5 inches of lift. I find that much better for some stuff.
willwren is offline   Reply With Quote
 
 
Reply

Related Topics
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Oil Change- Oil Leak guls 1992-1999 5 03-04-2009 08:32 AM
Change the oil pan drain plug without changing the oil too 93-SSE General GM Chat 16 10-23-2007 04:47 PM
Noob question Bonnevilleforonly$500 General GM Chat 10 10-16-2007 08:01 AM
stupid noob question.... Ryno02 General GM Chat 5 09-30-2007 01:57 PM
Oil gauge/DIC change oil now question. Pearl_bonnie02 2000-2005 7 11-01-2006 07:14 PM


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -4. The time now is 10:32 AM.


We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites.