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1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 09-15-2006, 05:01 PM   #11
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Default How about grounds

One mechanic I listen to says when funny things start happening with a car check for ground problems somewhere. The changing codes makes me think of that...
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Old 09-15-2006, 05:38 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GreenGoblin
Now he can't find anything wrong with it again. I haven't had the best of experiences with the local GMC dealer. They replaced a 400 dollar alternator for what later turned out to be a fuse. I'm thinking this may be my only option.
$400 alternator? On the L27 and LN3 engines the Alt is a 10 minute replacement... $400 is a rip off...

I do agree somewhat tho... you may want to start checking the ground busses.... Pull up the corner of the carpet on the drivers side and passenger side and see if you have any wet carpet/insulation under there..

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Old 09-15-2006, 06:57 PM   #13
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I changed the oil pressure sender which seemed to take care of the fluctuations. And I replaced the fuel pump relay. I was looking at the relays mounted on the fire wall and noticed a couple were cracked and one looked chared around the male connector, and the connector on the wiring harness is melted. What could have caused this?
I'm suffering from the flu and just checking the fuses put me into a cold sweat
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Old 09-15-2006, 07:22 PM   #14
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Just pulled the carpet on the passenger side (wet very wet) there is a small thin rectangular box with a few wires connected to a steel plate ( also very wet) is this the ground .
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Old 09-15-2006, 08:08 PM   #15
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1. The fuel pump relay is located in the relay box under the passenger side dash. You should have a diagram on the cover of the box to identify the realys.

As for the relays on the firewall, here is a diagram that should help. (not sure what year this is from) Also, there should be a diagram on the back of the covers for the fuse boxes that show what each fuse is for.

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Ahhh...the wet carpet. and yes, The rectangular box with wires and steel plate is one of the grounds. There is another on the driver'* side. When wet/corroded, these are often the culprit for many problems. Here are some pics of location, and good and bad ground Buss connectors. Dry everything up and clean up the ground busses so we can see if that helps any problems that you are having.

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Old 09-15-2006, 09:59 PM   #16
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Thank'* I asked the guy at the parts store and he told me that they were fog light connectors and they wouldn't put grounds under the carpeting. I'll not be asking him for any more advice. But I took a blow dryer to it, and I dried up as much as I could with paper towels. I'm going to leave the carpet up for a couple of days and let it air dry. That relay switch has got me worried though. It looks alot like the one you pictured but mine has a few more in the panel. I'm going to try to get a picture.
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Old 09-15-2006, 10:58 PM   #17
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What would have made it melt I wonder.
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Old 09-16-2006, 11:35 AM   #18
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That one should be the blower motor relay. Hard to say what made it melt but it could just be the relay itself that failed. Was the blower motor working?

The fuel pump relay should be under the dash on the passenger side.

Did you pull the metal plate from the ground buss connector & clean the plate & contacts inside the connector?
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Old 09-16-2006, 12:25 PM   #19
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I pulled the plate and cleaned it. Not much corrosion but it was dripping wet. No any fast ways of drying that padding.
I found the fuel pump relay and replaced it. I went to the salvage yard and picked up a new harness/connector for the blower relay and replaced it. I drove it for a few miles with no troubles, but I'll have to drive it over 100 miles before I have any confidence in it.
The blower did still work but now it seems much stronger.
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Old 09-16-2006, 12:36 PM   #20
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The ground buss being wet shouldn't really hurt, it could even improve the connection while it'* wet. It'* the repeated wetting & resulting corrosion that'll end up giving you trouble. You'll have to track down that water leak.
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