1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

No spark... need help.

Old Jul 8, 2004 | 11:35 AM
  #21  
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Well she started up again this morning, which is frustrating me more than it sitting and not doing anything because now I really have no idea what the problem is.

Maybe I'll replace the crank shaft sensor... is there anyway to test for a faulty coil pack?

this car is starting to drive me insane

edit:
I take that back, it seems as though I (through all of you) now have a pretty good idea of what the problem is. If I had the finances to change out all the possible faulty parts then I'd do so, but I've got to get it narrowed down a bit (or get a better paying job :P )
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Old Jul 8, 2004 | 01:19 PM
  #22  
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when I went to goto work, the car wouldn't start again... I'm going to replace the crank sensor and hope that'* it...
Anyway, thank you all so much for the help... I'll let you guys know what happens.
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Old Jul 8, 2004 | 10:50 PM
  #23  
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Default Bellhousing?!?!

Hey folks, it'* me again

Anyway, I picked up a new crankshaft sensor from Napa today, and tried to install it... but I've ran into a slight problem and being as I'm just starting to discover my mechanical abilities (or lack there of) it'* turned into a bigger problem.

The Haynes manual says to remove vibration damp by taking off the front passenger wheel, and the splash guard, which is no problem, I got the drive belt out of the way and the next step as I understand it is to remove the bellhousing around the crankshaft...

Now, please don't laugh at me here, I ask in all honesty and ignorance:
How the heck do I keep the housing from turning while attempting to remove the nut? Is there somekind of mechanic'* secret to doing this? Or do I just need to get someone to hold it somehow?

Thanks!
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Old Jul 8, 2004 | 10:52 PM
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Pull off the flywheel cover on the other end of the motor, and have someone hold a big flatheaded screwdriver in the teeth of the flywheel, against the block. And tell them not to mess up the sealing surface.


BTW, I've never gotten a harmonic Balancer (the part you're taking off) off with out at least a 3ft cheater bar or an impact.
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Old Jul 8, 2004 | 11:02 PM
  #25  
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Thanks for the quick reply.
It'* going to have to wait until tomorrow afternoon.

I really hope this does the trick.


Originally Posted by Damemorder
Pull off the flywheel cover on the other end of the motor, and have someone hold a big flatheaded screwdriver in the teeth of the flywheel, against the block. And tell them not to mess up the sealing surface.


BTW, I've never gotten a harmonic Balancer (the part you're taking off) off with out at least a 3ft cheater bar or an impact.
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Old Jul 9, 2004 | 02:08 AM
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Sledge hammer

( carefull around the motor lol)

j/k!!! You'll need some work/friends to do it for sure.
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Old Jul 10, 2004 | 11:36 AM
  #27  
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Default crank sensor

I heard about major problems trying to get the balancer off and a special tool
needed to position the new sensor so I gladly paid the dealer 1 hr labor to do
my SSE when the sensor wen't bad.
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Old Jul 10, 2004 | 04:59 PM
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This is something I'm going to consider, I'm currently working around the sensor hoping that the problem lies somewhere else... But without an error code, the best I can do is keep my fingers crossed.
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