My Bonne won't start, Help - Page 2 - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 07-21-2007, 11:04 PM   #11
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Correct. Not the switch.

You're on the right track.
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Old 07-22-2007, 12:23 AM   #12
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i had a die hard 800 cca and it too tested at 12.8 volts but my car would just not start with out a jump from someone.. so i cleaned all battery terminals as i had the battery tested and it tested good. but when my car died the batt would read way over 12 volts but would not start the car with out a jump.. so i went a bought a new battery (duralast gold 1000 cca) and never had that problem again.. batterys can be a lil tricky sometimes.. and alot of people would'nt think so..
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Old 07-22-2007, 01:43 PM   #13
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Ok here is where I'm at now. Couldn't find another battery to swap so I bought a new one. Still the same results. So I move to the next step which is a new positive cable. I remember having this problem a year ago, which was simply tightening the bolt to the positive terminal, it'* work fine till now. So I go buy a new cable which is a single cable from which I have to splic the Alt. wire into it. Well I don't want to go butchering up the old cable just yet. So I'm going to shop around for one that has both wires on it, even calling the junkyard if I have to. I have alternate transportation till this thing gets resolved.Meanwhile I've been spraying penetrating oil on the motor mounts and water pump bolts to get those prepped up for that job. Screw the $300 they want for installing a new water pump. I will keep you posted. Thanks Scott
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Old 07-22-2007, 02:29 PM   #14
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If the starter tested good & you replaced the battery & cleaned the cables then remove the spark plugs & see if the engine cranks. You may have a hydrolocked enngine.
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Old 07-22-2007, 08:04 PM   #15
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Allright. First, what is a hydrolocked engine. And if after I do all of that it doesn't start. Then what. Are you saying to just pull the wires from the plugs or remove tjhem altogether. And if so, how do I get the one in the back that is so hard to access.
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Old 07-22-2007, 08:12 PM   #16
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Hydrolocked is when coolant gets into the cylinders. Coolant won't compress and will prevent it from cranking. He wants you to remove your sparkplugs and try cranking it. If you have someone to assist, have them start whil you look to see if any fluids get pumped out of the sparplug holes.

On another note, the ground cables are just as important as the positive cables. Electricity won't flow if it can't get back to the battery. Please check the ground cable ends for corrosion too. Clean the block where the negative mounts to it too.

EDIT - Heres some important info on the primary causes of a hydrolocked engine. http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/...e=article&k=38
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Old 07-22-2007, 10:06 PM   #17
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Thanks for the info. Not very encouraging. Considering this all began with me discovering the bad water pump and filling the radiator with Dexcool so I could take it to the repair shop. Prior to that I had discovered my engine overheating which led me to the water pump diagnosis, so I was adding rad. fluid to the resevoir a few days prior to taking it to the shop. As for the Neg.cable.Did that. As stated, right now I'm in the process of figuring out what to do about the Pos.cable whether finding one that I don't have to splice into (I don't like having to do that) or going to the junkyard to find one. I am thinking of disassembling the post fitting of the old one as far as trying to uncrimp it, and using the single cable I bought re-fit it to that.
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Old 07-22-2007, 10:25 PM   #18
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So you actually saw coolant leaking from the waterpump?
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Old 07-23-2007, 10:25 PM   #19
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That'* right. As I was pouring the Dexcool into the radiatorwith the engine running, like I always have done. After the third fill-up it kept going down, that is when I bent down and noticed the fluid leaking from the water pump. So I shut it off and went inside to call the shop for an estimate, got a bite to eat, then went out to take it to the shop. And then nothing. I figured it was the same thing I had dealt with before when the Pos terminal was loose. So I tightened it, even tho it was already tight. It was loose to wiggle like before. But again no start.And now I'm at this point. So when I have time on Wed. I will check the cylinders.
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Old 07-23-2007, 10:29 PM   #20
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Correction: It was'nt loose to wiggle like before. It was tight. Last summer when I had that problem, I tightned it and it has run fine since. Now when it overheated that day I had kept my eye on the temperature gauge and reduced my speed so it would'nt overheat too bad as i made my way to buy some fluid.
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