John's Shave-O-Matic replacement - Page 12 - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 05-18-2007, 03:46 PM   #111
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Ok, so I pulled a few of the tranny-block bolts from my parts car at my parents' house. Oddly enough (or maybe it'* on purpose), they exactly match to bolts used on the stand itself. But they aren't long enough. Off to the hardware store.
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Old 05-26-2007, 03:43 PM   #112
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Update:

Saturday afternoon, it all started with some parts runs. Lowe'* for bolts, Advance, Harbor Freight... worked on the new engine for a short time, then started getting the old one ready to vacate. Worked on it Sunday starting in the early afternoon. Had the engine free by 6:30. Put it on the stand and pulled everything off it I needed by Monday evening. I was working slow. Taking my time. My neighbor took me to work Tue-Thur. Engine went in Wednesday evening after the rockers seemed to settle in. That had slowed me down quite a bit because I fiddled, pouted, and sulked thinking they wouldn't work for em. I had to pull the heatsheilds off my old EMs to put on the PEMs. Note: 92 front mani has a larger shield that covers a lot more than later manis. It won't fit. And the crosspipe shield is a lot different too. 92 doesn't require welding, and later manis only have one rivet point. Got everything bolted up by late last night. Filled the fluids. Cranked it for several seconds with the injectors unplugged to try to cycle some oil. Then, fired it up for real. Hard start, and seemed to be hammering like John Brown, but idleing pretty smooth at 1500. Looked around and it seemed the noise was coming from the belts. So I let it idle for a while. Shut it off a couple times to refill the radiator as coolant was sucked into the block. But everytime the idle tried to settle, it got real rough and the belt area made hellish noises. Fumes were building up in the garage despite the door being open. So I backed it out, backfiring all twenty feet of it. And he temps skyrocketed after a minute of idleing in the driveway. So I shut it off and went to bed a little frustrated that it wasn't running right... cursing Boosty'* spreading luck as I fell asleep. Slept in, looked up the spark plug wiring routing. Check the car... I've got two switched. Pull them off the coils, fiddled with something else, put them back on. Started it up, same thing. As it'* idling, the alternator belt loses a rib. After I turn it off and pull the discarded rib out of the idler pulley, the knocking goes away. So I try to pull out of the driveway. It'* still back firing and running terrible. I try to turn around after 40 feet and it dies. Dies 6 more times before I complete the u-turn. The neighbors are probably wondering who this dirty kid with the POS is that bought the big house in the neighborhood. Finally get back in the driveway and pop the hood. recheck the wires. It seems I was distracted. I put them back on how they were before . Switch them up. Turn the key... and... the smoothest idle ever!!! Like butter baby. I took it for a slow and lazy 5 mile drive with the windows down. So smooth, and sounds the best it ever has. It'* gonna be hard to baby it for a while.

Now I gotta go scrub the oil and coolant out of the garage floor.
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Old 05-26-2007, 04:17 PM   #113
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-sometimes it'* the simple things that can drive you crazy. Glad to see you're back in action. How'* that oil pressure now?
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Old 05-26-2007, 04:39 PM   #114
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40 at hot idle. Pretty much sits there after it warms up. 70 at cold start up.
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Old 05-26-2007, 05:07 PM   #115
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Excellent.

And you ALWAYS overlook something simple on a big job like that. We all do.
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Old 05-26-2007, 05:41 PM   #116
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Quote:
Originally Posted by willwren
And you ALWAYS overlook something simple on a big job like that. We all do.
Amen to that! You feel like a real dufus when you find it (along with being pleased) that you'd mess up something so elementary, but it still happens.

Great work getting it all done!
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Old 05-26-2007, 08:45 PM   #117
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WTG John!
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Old 05-26-2007, 09:08 PM   #118
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Things I found:

My original EMs have a big restriction in the rear where the down pipe is welded on.
When my tranny was rebuilt, they didn't put the "backwards bolt" back in.
My oil cooler line o-rings went AWOL
30,000 mile old SC oil smells like rotting crayons, if they could rot
My engine clunks when turned over by hand from cylinder 2
I had chunks of metal in the oil pan, not just shavings
My block did not have a boss in the front for the later added knock sensor
The rear knock sensor is plugged into an oil passage, but it'* already plugged deeper down with a female allen head plug
I will never escape the "SC gasket leaves a gap into the cavities next to the wastegate" disease
You never have everything you need to do an engine swap
The first time will take a lot longer than you expect
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Old 05-27-2007, 02:30 PM   #119
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Hmm, I wish I would known my PCM wouldn't like the oil level sensor in the oil pan. Now I get a warning everytime I start the car. I think I'd have to pull the pan to swap the sensor.
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Old 05-27-2007, 03:50 PM   #120
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The PCM doesn't even look at the oil level sensor. It doesn't know it'* even there. It only monitors oil PRESSURE.

Your DIC is the only thing that looks at the oil level. What sensor is it? From a different year?
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