I am new and need some help. Car dying...
clean and apply die-electric grease to all batt connections.
then clean and tighten the connector to the module (under coil) as well as the crank sensor. you could have a bad connector or a sensor going out.
then clean and tighten the connector to the module (under coil) as well as the crank sensor. you could have a bad connector or a sensor going out.
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After the car dies it will fire right back up as soon as I hit the key. I was driving around Sunday and stopped (went to the zoo) for about three hours. When I came out the car acted like it did not want to start. It would fire catch sputter and die the first two times, then it would not catch then I tried, and about the sixth time I gave it about half throttle and it caught and ran fine. It ran all the way home with no problems though it did seem to have a small miss. I was about two hours from home. I think it is the crank sensor but just wanted a second opinion. I do not think that it acts like a control module but I know that they can fail in different ways.
I had an oldsmobile that had a very similar problem. It would start go for a littleways and then die. It got progressively worse until it would not start at all. It turned out to be my fuel injectors. The way the mechanic explained it to me is that each injector has a certain amount of resistance an when one or more of the injectors start to degrade, it will shut down the whole fuel system because the injectors are on a series circut. What he did to check it is after my car would not start at all he disconnected one of the injectors and it started and ran. I won't say this is the same issue, but it does sound very similar to what problems I had. Good luck, electrical problems are the worst!!!!
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Originally Posted by chuck03
I had an oldsmobile that had a very similar problem. It would start go for a littleways and then die. It got progressively worse until it would not start at all. It turned out to be my fuel injectors. The way the mechanic explained it to me is that each injector has a certain amount of resistance an when one or more of the injectors start to degrade, it will shut down the whole fuel system because the injectors are on a series circut. What he did to check it is after my car would not start at all he disconnected one of the injectors and it started and ran. I won't say this is the same issue, but it does sound very similar to what problems I had. Good luck, electrical problems are the worst!!!! 
The older 3.0 and 3300'* used the Multiport Injection...
The older system could fire either in a bank of injectors or in pairs... I believe the 3.0 and 3300 fired the injectors in pairs... And one injector will take out the other on that same circuit...
The 3800'* are SFI, and each injector has its own seperate circuit... Its also very rare for more than on injector to fail on a 3800 at any given time...
Yesterday myself and a friend were looking at a 94 Buick Lesabre with the Vin L 3800, it would start off the module and run off of the residule fule that was then then shut off in a matter of seconds.... We both pointed at the PCM, as it seemed that the PCM was not taking over control after 400 Rpms... I had an extra PCM to test with, so we tested it and the car fired up and ran.... Plugs were fouled like a ( you know ) but the car ran... Needed a new PCM...
Just remember that these engines are diffrent in the way that they are controled...
The Chevy 60* V'* will have the same diffrences as well... All of the later 60* V6'* went to the SFI as opposed to the MPFI.... Better fuel control, effiencey, and emissions...
I know I'm a bit off topic here, but I thought I should pipe in..
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Originally Posted by SSEBONNE4EVA
with no codes you gotta start with the basics like connections, then test injector pulse.
failed crank sensors rarely set a code also.
failed crank sensors rarely set a code also.

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