HELP!! New oil pump, can't get primed - Page 2 - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 11-01-2005, 09:24 PM   #11
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Alright, pulled the plugs. Used a drill to crank the engine till the drill died. Put the plugs back in, overfilled the engine four times (4 qts) cranking about a minute each time, no luck. Battery is dead now, so I'm charging it, and I'm out of ideas. Could it need more than 4 qts. to be above the pump? I'll try to post pics of the old pump gears...
Mike
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Old 11-01-2005, 10:11 PM   #12
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sorry, didn't work
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Old 11-01-2005, 10:14 PM   #13
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Old 11-01-2005, 11:24 PM   #14
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IF and only IF you've verified that the gauge is good and you still have no pressure, I hate to say it, but it'* teardown time.

You're not doing the internals any good with constant rotation, even at the speed a drill turns the engine over
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Old 11-02-2005, 03:01 AM   #15
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Wow. This is an uncommon problem. And I must congratulate you, Mike, for having exhibited uncommon patience and tenacity in dealing with this. There are few problems that can withstand the judicious application of time and money.

Assuming 1. that you were sold the right parts and 2. that the front cover was in good enough shape to allow for the oil pump gear chamber and new parts to measure within spec, and 3. that the pickup tube and strainer have no holes or blockages, the only thing left I can think of is that you have something that is blocking the flow of oil either before or after the pump, not letting any oil flow to prime it. You should be able to check the passages by removing the front cover (again!) and the adapter and blowing compressed air through all the passages to make sure they are clear. The passages after the filter (the oil gallery in the engine), I believe, originate at the center pipe that the oil filter spins onto. If I am correct about that, a blockage in the engine could be detected by trying to blow air through the threaded oil filter center pipe, before you remove the adapter plate.

If I read your post correctly, I am most concerned about the running to temperature without the oil pump functioning. That could have been the end of your engine bearings. But hey, they run engines on the Duralube commercial with no oil in the pan for a while without the bearings melting, so maybe you will be lucky.
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Old 11-02-2005, 05:24 AM   #16
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You will probably have to disassemble the pump again. Make sure there are no obstructions and make sure you installed a new gasket in the body. Without a new gasket, the cover will not seal and will bleed the pressure.

Also, remove the pan and make sure the strainer is not plugged with debri from the old pump. Remove the oil filter adapter and make sure the pressure relief valve is not stuck and also check the spring to make sure it is not broken or colapsed. New replacement pump kits have cheap Chinese made springs. I have seen too many new replacement relief springs break or collapse on Buick and AMC oil pumps. I never use the new springs provided in the oil pump repair kits. I buy a new replacement spring at the industrial nut and bolt store.
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