Help! Need all the melted intake info I can get!!!!!!! - Page 5 - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 12-13-2006, 03:45 PM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BillBoost37
The EGR system didn't fail though. It worked properly. By working properly it put the expected temperatures and gasses where the engineers designed it to.

The EGR didn't break.. the upper did.
the warranty company is arguing the cause and effect of the failure. They EGR system which is not covered was teh cause of a failure, therefore they're saying nothing is covered. They're not saying the EGR system failed, it doesn't make a difference. What does matter is that a non-covered item was the direct cause of something that was covered. That really sucks, but I can see their point. I agree though that we all know the cause is an engineering problem, not the EGR'* fault. The upper intake IS the engineering fault, but if the EGR wasn't routed through there to begin with, there wouldn't be a problem.
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Old 12-13-2006, 06:56 PM   #42
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I'll just say this... When I bought my 95 SE, I added an extended warranty.... My upper intake ruptured in the extended warranty period and was repaired under warranty.. At the time this was the best warranty plan I could get... It sure did pay for its self before it expired

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Old 12-14-2006, 12:54 AM   #43
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hi i live in montreal and i know where to get a brand new dorman intake for 150$ canadien and i can help you just dont know if it to late don
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Old 12-14-2006, 08:43 AM   #44
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It may already be too late for the crank and bearings for a new intake, but there is a cheaper option I believe is better.

Buy a rebuilt upper from Bob Dillon on this Forum for 60 bucks (better than the Dorman IMO), and a reduced diameter stovepipe from Bill Buttermore (custom). Again, better than the alternatives IMO. I've installed both of these on a members car, and believe it to be the closest to a permanent solution. Including ALL GASKETS the total bill is only about 100 bucks.

And GET THAT DEXCOOL out of the car. It'* as much of a problem as the EGR/UIM issue!
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Old 12-14-2006, 12:00 PM   #45
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It'* not too late for anything really. The car is sitting at the dealer with the UIM/LIM and both heads off. I'm looking at new head gaskets and a LIM gasket too. I really hope the lower end doesn't corrode. I have have been trying to figure out how to get it home, I have nowhere to put it in Montreal. I'm thinking I have to rent a truck and a tow dolly to bring back to my place where it at least can be garaged.

I am no stranger to engine work, but I'm not the one who took it apart and that'* a big minus for me. I have no experience with these 3.8Ls, only GM smallblock V8s and VW fours :p

I'm going to need the best service manual I can get, and really at this point, with the motor half torn down already and sitting in contaminated oil, I'm really considering an L67 swap. What do you guys think? I can get a low mileage L67 near my home for $900. Use my tranny a short while being nice and easy and get the diff update in ohio when I get the chance? I have the time to work out harness issues, and I already see some info out there on the web.

It'* already a fully loaded SSE, I have the HUD, Bose, Leather, I just lack the */C and the boost gauge, and maybe the selectable suspension.
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Old 12-14-2006, 12:01 PM   #46
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I really hope the lower end doesn't corrode. ....... with the motor half torn down already and sitting in contaminated oil,
This is exactly why it may be too late already.
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Old 12-14-2006, 12:04 PM   #47
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Oh no wait! I have rear drum brakes!!! :(

:P
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Old 12-16-2006, 11:09 AM   #48
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Well that'* that then. I will be Uhauling it one way back my garage in NY. When I get it back I'll take some photos and post them if you guys would like to see a catasrophic uppers failure :/ I'll keep ya posted once I have her garaged. Thanks again for all your help guys.
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Old 12-16-2006, 11:15 AM   #49
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Don't forget you have many resources here, and locally too if you need it.

To be honest with you, Chilton'* #28200 should be all you need for the repair. But you'll want FSM'* for the swap. At this point, I wouldn't trust the bottom end. Unless you pull the oil pan and a couple rod caps to inspect the crank. NUMBER them if you do that.
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Old 12-16-2006, 11:56 AM   #50
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Where are you in central NY??
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