It ran smoother with the maf unplugged but with it unplugged when I would come to a stop the car would die not while accelerating like it lost the power soruce and I checked for vaccum leaks I guess I might of missed a vaccum line but I know I did the ones going into the car for the ac because it was onlty woeking on defrost and I had to do those line and that works fine now

Did he check the fuel pressure requlator? I might have missed that. Easy way to check it is just to pull the vacuum line off and see if there'* any gas in that line.

thank you guys for your responses I went ahead and changed the maf and the rough idle went right away but I have one more question after I have been driving and I stop at 7 11 to get something to drink and I go start my car the temperature gauge is real high about half way between the 200 mark and the red warning area and when I drive for a couple minutes it goes back down can anyone tell me why it would do this

because now its running right and our primary fans on the bonnevilles not 100 percent sure on the olds lss'* do not kick on until 235 which is where you stated it runs up to. anyways my 97 runs up to that point in town but never goes higher and sometimes when the motors are cold they dump more fuel than is needed to warm up and then itll get to warm for a second and cool back down its normal for this behaivor you want to be concerned when its redlining and spraying antifreeze everywhere lol

Sounds like air in the coolant system. Use the bleeder screws to get it all out.

also remember that when moving the heat is transfered from the heads and block to the coolant. So when parked all the heat stays in the heads block etc and give you a higher temp reading at first untill fluid is moving again