having a few problems - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 03-12-2007, 03:16 AM   #1
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Default having a few problems


Hi all,
I'm new here and needed some help. I have a "98 SE 3800 ser 2. First, I had the big anti freeze dumping into the motor. Got that fixed. But since I got it done about 8 months ago. I've noticed something strange. For some reason, I get a higher idle in all ranges, than I used to. I'm wondering, could that problem have messed up the trans too, making car idle higher?
Second. Is it true that the Bonnevilles had a bad break design? I say this because I go through pas and rotors fast. And when breaking from 45 mph or higher, the whole car shakes bad.

And lastly, is the paint, I was tring to find out if there was a recall on that year. Because my roof is pealing up very bad and fast. Any help would be appreciated.

Thank you,
Jenni

P.* glad I found a group of owners/fans of the best car made. Bonneville
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Old 03-12-2007, 03:21 AM   #2
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First of all, welcome to BC!

The most possible reason you are going thru brakes is the reason that the rear drum brake adjusters are wearing out, I experienced this problem on my 93, they dont seem to stay adjusted correctly, thus this causes most of the braking to be done by the front brakes only.

The fix is to manually adjust your rear brakes, since they dont like to adjust on their own.

Basically make sure the rears are adjusted properly..there are instructions here on this site, then replace the rotors (i'd do pads as well since they are cheap and easy if you do the rotors)......

Do not have your front rotors turned, it will just be a matter of time before they warp again, its better to start off with a new (thicker) set of rotors.


In regards to your RPM issue, what is your RPM at 65MPH in Drive (4th) with the torque converter locked on a flat surface? IMPORTANT: Is there any change in rpmswhen you shift from 3rd to 4th??

What about 55 with the torque converter locked (it should kick down)

Also..how high does it sit at idle ONCE its warmed up after driving? Any check engine light?
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Old 03-12-2007, 05:10 AM   #3
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Thank you for the welcome.
First, I dont mind getting dirty, My father tought me at an early age to repair my own cars.
I can change engines and trans in and out,(on old cars, but This FWD is new area for me.) I dont have the rotors turned at all, cheaper here to buy new ones when needed..
I think that also one of my calipers is stuck too. Because I had to change the pads again early. The right pad was wore down and broke. The left was like new. (but went ahead and changed with right and new rotor on right too. As far as the back go Ive had
the car going on 5 yrs, and they look new slill.

Second. ok before the plentium ( or what ever they call it) upper manifold messed up.
the RPM was normal. When I first cranked it to warm it was just below 1k. Warm it would drop to 600 or close. It would rise up to round 2k untill it kicked into OD ( I know nothing about the gears, I keep it in OD. Once it settled it would drop to 1k or close.
Now, it up to just above 1k start to warm. and in driving it takes longer to settle, and will hit 3k,( when it does, the whole car shakes. then it rides at 2k settled. Basicaly 2k in driving.
And as far as the engine light goes, the only code it has is e0440, gas cap or Evaporator.
Oops, car is down now, fuel pump went out
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Old 03-12-2007, 05:57 AM   #4
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I'm a bit confused, the fuel pump is failed?

I'd focus on the sensors around the throttle body area to start since they had to be unplugged/connectors removed when the UIM was changed. If this problem you describe was a direct result of changing the UIM at least.

To give you an idea, on a flat surface I run 35mph in both cars at 1500RPM, 52 (4th, TC Locked) mph at 1500rpm, and 2200RPM at 75mph. Thats with a functioning transmission. Your gearing is different being a SE version but the rpm at X speed will be similar.

I idle around 1300 Cold ar both cars but it drops to about 600-700.

You mention the rear brake shoes still look new, this may mean they are not adjusted properly like I mentioned and this is the reason that you are going thru front rotors so often, of course a stuck caliper will accelerate this process as well.....
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Old 03-12-2007, 07:59 AM   #5
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Default problems

No hun the pump just happened friday. Totally unrelated,I knew it was headed out.
O k Ill check the connections to the sencors. and make sure all are tightly connected.

And how do I go about the process on adjusting the back brakes?
Thanks
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Old 03-12-2007, 09:11 AM   #6
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Hans, you seem to be speaking about things in a different sense.

Her tach calibration didn't change. This is a very common thing on an L36 after the upper swap. She'* missing an o-ring in the PCV that wasn't trasferred over from the old manifold, or she has a vacuum leak.

Jen, do you still have the old part? Check it if you do. There should be an o-ring in the PCV housing (under the MAP sensor). At idle, what do you notice if you remove the oil cap?
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Old 03-12-2007, 03:59 PM   #7
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Hi Will,
No I dont have any thing from the old manifold. I had a Pontiac Dealership fix it. You are talking aboout the PCV Valve , right? Like I said, Im new to this FWD motor, Whats a MAP sensor? But all of this now will have to wait untill I get the fuel pump replaced, wont start, so cant tell if I have a leak or not. But I can take the PCV valve out and see if it has an o ring on it.
Now can anyone tell me the proceedure for removing the fuel pump, I do know its in the tank. But I read in a book that I have to releive the pressure. I cant find the fuse for it.
Thanks
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Old 03-12-2007, 05:36 PM   #8
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Regarding the PCV valve o-rings, note that there are two and that it is common to forget the second one, causing a vacuum in the crankcase. Another possibility along those same lines, and one we've seen a couple times, is that someone failed to get the old o-ring out before putting in the new ones, also resulting in a bad seal there.

Alternatively, once you get it running again, do a thorough review of ALL the vacuum lines and connections, even (and especially) those leading to the evap. cannister under the airbox. With this age car, there are commonly cracks or splits in at least the connectors, elbows and tees. Even one small one can cause the effects your seeing. More = worse of course.

There are some good write-ups on the fuel pump replacememnt, but consider also replacing the fuel sensor while you have that tank dropped. Search for an article by BillBoost37, I believe.

I'd do the search for you, but have to run. Good luck!
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Old 03-12-2007, 06:05 PM   #9
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Default problems

ok thanks.
How about just replacing all the vac hoses and connectors? I do have a code coming in from the EVap. But it been there quite a long while. Way before the upper prob. Might replace the thing too. I know the tranny needs to becleaned and the filter andfluid changed.( Dont know if its ever been done at all. I do know Ive never had it done in my 5 yrs Ive had it.) I also found out something else, that when I bought it, that the dealership didnt tell me. For the first 3 yrs it used to be a rental car!!!! From Enterprise Car Rentals. That info was inside the owner'* man.
No wonder after the first 2 days of buying it, I had to take it back because of a knocking in the motor. They had to replace the bearings. ( And I would have bought another Bonne , seeing I work for a Car rental place. I know what these cars go through, in their rental life.).
Ok the reason I havent gotten the trans filter and fulid changed was all the people I know warning me against it because of the mileage on it. They said if I did change it, it would probally last a few months and die.
Ok now I will go search for the fuel pump article, and learn how to replace it.

thanks
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