getting very tired of warping rotors, any suggestions? - Page 3 - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 09-19-2003, 07:47 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by srgetz
thanks for all the info...

I'm going to get OE or hi-po rotors and some OE durastop pads and torque everything properly.
I just love happy endings!
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Old 09-19-2003, 11:45 PM   #22
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If you install your rotors properly... discussed quite a bit, then a stock rotor under mild use is ok. I have had new replacements professionally installed and with good semi pads. Still destroyed the rotors in no time flat. I did this for years…


Who wants to spend all their time figuring out all the nuances of brake work and then argue with the guy installing them. Not me.

I have destroyed RSM rotors but I had to work at it and I mean no seasoning just hammered on and straight up to Canada from Cali. Then back and then back to Canada and back again. On the way there the second time I was able to destroy them but they faired much better than stock rotors when warped (hard spots). There was more than 9 months between the drives. I have another solution coming that is much better for the person who destroys rotors and it will give you a friendlier relationship with your brakes.

Oh and the best ceramic Pad is the new Bendix. Take a look..

Ty
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Old 09-20-2003, 02:09 AM   #23
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This past weekend I had the car realigned. They said I needed new front pads. Well, they never removed the front wheels so I don't see how they can be so sure just by looking at the front calipers.
What? They are taking you for a ride man...
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Old 09-20-2003, 02:12 AM   #24
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This past weekend I had the car realigned. They said I needed new front pads. Well, they never removed the front wheels so I don't see how they can be so sure just by looking at the front calipers.
What? They are taking you for a ride man...
If they had it on a lift they might be able to see the side of the pad material and determin how much is left. If the car never left the ground (really damn hard to see in there then) then I would agree with BonneMeMN.
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Old 09-21-2003, 09:35 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by BonneMeMN
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This past weekend I had the car realigned. They said I needed new front pads. Well, they never removed the front wheels so I don't see how they can be so sure just by looking at the front calipers.
What? They are taking you for a ride man...
If they had it on a lift they might be able to see the side of the pad material and determin how much is left. If the car never left the ground (really damn hard to see in there then) then I would agree with BonneMeMN.
That'* exactly it. The tech that worked on my car did have it on a lift and was able to see the outer pad through the wheels. Just to keep him honest(and make it easier to zap some grease into the grease fittlings) I removed the front wheels today to get an better perspective on the true condition of the front brakes. And the tech was basically correct. I will need new pads soon. Not tomorrow, but I should replace them within the next couple of months.
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Old 09-22-2003, 11:50 PM   #26
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The tech was probably looking at the scrapper on the pad and seen it was close to contacting the rotor. Not to throw another angle at you, but lugnut torque is the leading cause of warping rotors, the main contributing factor to that is also heat. I had a caliper sticking on me once and a buddy of mine (Professional mechanic, I'm just a hobbiest) told me that it'* common for the brake hose to collapse (seems they have an inner liner) When you apply pedal pressure, the fluid would run to the caliper, the inner liner would collapse, and wouldnt allow the fluid to return back keeping the caliper piston extended. I would drive it about 2 blocks down the road, come back and the rim was extremely hot to the touch. It ended being a 25 dollar fix.
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Old 09-23-2003, 12:17 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by speedyguy
If you install your rotors properly... discussed quite a bit, then a stock rotor under mild use is ok. I have had new replacements professionally installed and with good semi pads. Still destroyed the rotors in no time flat. I did this for years…


Who wants to spend all their time figuring out all the nuances of brake work and then argue with the guy installing them. Not me.

I have destroyed RSM rotors but I had to work at it and I mean no seasoning just hammered on and straight up to Canada from Cali. Then back and then back to Canada and back again. On the way there the second time I was able to destroy them but they faired much better than stock rotors when warped (hard spots). There was more than 9 months between the drives. I have another solution coming that is much better for the person who destroys rotors and it will give you a friendlier relationship with your brakes.

Oh and the best ceramic Pad is the new Bendix. Take a look..

Ty
I, too have killed the RSM'*. Not bad, but still warped. To their credit, I TRIED to kill them. They finally warped after a long time under very extreme circumstances. I still reccommend them, but I'm waiting to see Ty'* new little secret. I may have to be a test car again
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Old 09-23-2003, 01:59 AM   #28
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Old 09-23-2003, 02:01 AM   #29
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Then, "Blind Hole" dimples provide a “cross-drilled rotor" look while reducing the chance of the rotor cracking around the holes.
Any good thoughts I would have had were just dashed. Why go for the 'look' when it costs surface area (braking power) and adds no benefit?

Stay as far away from these as you can. Any company that sacrifices performance and safety for a 'look' is a company I don't want to deal with.
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Old 09-23-2003, 09:31 PM   #30
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this looks like some serious, high performance rotors... believe it or not, they are cryogenically treated rotors and are supposed to be 1-3x stronger than the same rotor not treated, also only around $180 / pair, i found this in another truck & RV forum where they seemed to really like them for severe duty use, take a look see...

http://www.frozenrotors.com
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