Hi everyone, past year or so ive had constant problem with the front rotors warping. I must have had them turned over 3 or 4 times so far. One rotor is a cheap $15 from autozone, and the other is a much thicker/beefyer neotek (also from autozone, no longer sold there).

After looking through previous posts here ive bought some Bendix rotors part number 141868 (very hard to find in my area, had to order them from online).



I need recommendations for pads. Ive read alot of talk over ceramics, some thread saying they transfer less heat so thats why they are better, some saying they actually transfer more heat.

Im looking for what brake combinations have work for people, what brands, part numbers would be great.

BRAKE WARPING SUCKS!, i want this to be the end of it.

Thanks guys

those and some bendix CT3 or TitainiuMetallic pads

I've got those very same rotors...I had to internet order them, too.

I'm using Raybestos Quiet Stop ceramic pads with them, and I love it.
(Had to internet order those, too)

ceramic DOES NOT transfer more heat. ceramic is an insulator. ceramic pads are supposed to have better stopping power.they also leave less dust on your wheels.

but personally i believe it is best to use semi-metalic pads on our cars. the reason is bc our cars are a lil heavy. and braking is all about transfering energy. stopping heavy cars (or even light) creats a lot of heaet. metalic pads transfer, and dissipate heat far superior to ceramic pads. which in the long run will have less warpage to the rotors. now, they do wear the rotors alil more than ceramic pads, but i believe it to be a fair trade.

Also, be certain that your back brakes are adjusted properly. If they are not, the front will have to do even more work, creating more heating, which can make the rotor warp.

It'* always an ongoing debate as to what causes rotor warping...


There'* a few things to check for when you put those new rotors on, I have the same ones, and I used Bendix CT-3 Ceramic pads up front, and even got Bendix Cylinders for the rear drums along with Bendix Shoes for the rear, and had everything adjusted.

1. Make sure your wheels are all torqued evenly, from what I've read and had done on my car, around 100lb/ft
2. Bed your brakes in! This is beyond crucial! If you read what Bendix recommends, IIRC, take your car out on a very open road, make sure there'* no traffic or you'll be pissing people off . Do 30mph-5mph (or so) stops a few times in a row, do NOT let the car stop, after about 5 of those, then do 60mph-5mph (or so) stops, around 3 times or so, you'll smell brake pad galore, do not worry. What you are doing is heating the pads onto the new rotors and creating an EVEN surface of pad material on the rotor. Tons of rotor "warp" is actually due to uneven pad transfer, such as coming to an emergency stop and leaving the boiling hot pads sitting stopped on the rotor leaving a mark. That "mark" creates vibration during future braking, making you THINK you need the rotors cut, which is entirely wrong. All you need to do is re-bed them. I've done this since I did my brakes about 6 months ago once, and it fixed the problem I had after the rain.

You can read an older post on brake bedding, linked here: http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/...971&highlight=


I hate to see people wasting money on turning their rotors many times, and the Bendix setup is amazing IMO.

My Bendix'* warped with my last set of generic ceramics... not a lot, but enough.

This time, I got the cryo treated Power Slots and Akibono [sp?] ceramics. So far, so good, but I think my master cylinder is starting to leak internally during/after hard stops.

Its always something... but 170K is a good run for a MC.

bucky..you probably had other issues if you warped the Bendix. I've tried.. tried a lot and with the rest of the braking system up to par..it'* quite a challenge that hasn't happened yet.

I agree with rear brake adjustment being the key. Not the most fun task on a Bonne, but will lengthen front brake longevity.