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1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 07-06-2015, 11:36 PM   #1
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Default Fuel line

So, I've spend much of my summer so far replacing brake lines on two Pontiacs... unfortunately, when I look at my '99 Bonneville, I can see that my tranny lines are weeping slightly (on order) and I'm scared to death to even look at the fuel lines, as they are pretty crusty. Unfortunately, after doing some research, I see my options for fuel line is a bit limited. GM seems to still stock the two pieces of the vapor line... and Classic Tube seems to stock the feed line and return line for a '97 Buick LeSabre... but not a '99 Bonneville. I believe these are interchangeable... but I need to ensure I have a Plan B.

I went to the local NAPA and Autozone and I was disappointed to find that while I can get 3/8 steel line to bend my own tubing, I don't see a way to easily connect to the GM quick disconnect fittings. Is there a source of some kind of fitting which has the male quick disconnect and perhaps a couple inches of tube and a flare and nut? I'd rather not hack off the nylon line and use a barb fitting... it seems like a recipe for disaster.

Any thoughts?

BKNJ
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Old 07-09-2015, 05:22 PM   #2
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I'm also looking for answer to this issue. My 1996 has 146K miles- the fuel gauge doesn't work, the fuel filter hasn't been changed in at least 90K miles, and all lines and connections are rusty. A trusted tech advised against fixing the sending unit, and said removing the fuel filter connections would likely mean having to replace all lines as loosening the connections would open a can of worms. He didn't want the job and warned me upfront that it isn't worth it!

Will be checking back on this thread for solutions...
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Old 07-10-2015, 01:27 PM   #3
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I'm also looking for answer to this issue. My 1996 has 146K miles- the fuel gauge doesn't work, the fuel filter hasn't been changed in at least 90K miles, and all lines and connections are rusty. A trusted tech advised against fixing the sending unit, and said removing the fuel filter connections would likely mean having to replace all lines as loosening the connections would open a can of worms. He didn't want the job and warned me upfront that it isn't worth it!

Will be checking back on this thread for solutions...
If you break the line when changing the fuel filter as I did a few years back on my 1998 Olds 88 you can get a fuel line repair kit at Auto Zone. It'* not hard to do as long as you have a heat gun.
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Old 07-10-2015, 03:43 PM   #4
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Anyone remember which year they started using the access panel in trunk for the fuel pumps? If you have metal lines coming off the top of the tank, there is none.....

Does your fuel filter have metal lines in and out of it? Then I understand what he is talking about,,,,if the metal lines are rusted bad, trying to remove the lines can have a domino effect of causing the metal lines to leak(have had good luck, soaking joints with PB Blaster, and then only using flare wrenches with pipes on the ends of then to get more leverage)......doing this kind of job, the customer has to be informed that this may happen, and that the metal lines coming out of the tank are part of the sending unit, and the whole unit may have to be replaced......and while you are in there, it doesn't make sense not to replace the fuel pump, if it hasn't been replaced before......so it starts to get expensive......Some vehicles have the metal lines out of the tank that join plastic lines.......trying to get those plastic/metal lines separated, can possibly cause a leak in the metal lines also......or the plastic lines/o-rings can be damaged taking them apart....they are not cheap either.....

I know this is a problem on cars in the northeast where winter salt plays havoc with metal lines....it really depends on how bad the rusting is....
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Old 07-10-2015, 06:44 PM   #5
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In my case, bad enough. See, in the Chicago area whenever it even snows a freaking trace amount, the city and surrounding suburbs lay down tons of salt. It ridiculous, and we all in effect pay a tax for it. I read one source calculate it at $600/year per vehicle. By "tax" I mean added maintenance, replacement parts, and reduced value of your vehicle. This corroded fuel line issue is a prime example.

They didn't use to be so eager to lay down salt for just dustings- I fully believe it'* partly a municipal liability/cover-your-*** issue, but more realistically economic. Lots of people get happy when it snows: the drivers who always seem to time it and have to go out on weekends, holiday, and evenings at over time wages. I'd love to know how the contracts for buying the salt and removal equipment really happen, as well as how profitable, and to whom.
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Old 07-11-2015, 02:39 AM   #6
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That access hole in the trunk is a W-body thing. My '99 Bonneville did not have it.
I had to replace my sending unit about 7 years ago. The steel lines on the unit are probably the only decent lines on the car. All the nylon fuel lines are in good shape, as well.

My fuel filter hasn't been replaced since I did the sender... there is no way I can loosen the filter without the steel lines tearing to shreds. In fact, I'm probably not going to be driving the car for a bit, as I fear any regular vibration is going to cause these steel lines to crack and leak. I already have had enough issues with brake lines and tranny cooler lines... I don't want to have the car burning next.

All the repair stuff I see involves barbed fittings... I don't want to hack up my nylon lines, as they are fine. I just want a source of steel line I can bend which has the GM Quick Disconnect male ends. Does anyone know where to get that?

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Old 07-11-2015, 12:23 PM   #7
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The "H" and "C" and "G" cars did have the opening in the trunk....wasn't sure which years they were......like I said, if you have metal lines coming off the top of the tank, naturally, you wouldn't have that opening....only if you had plastic lines coming off the top of the tank, would there be an opening in the trunk.....


does your fuel filter have a metal connection on the output, and metal on the input, or plastic on the input to the filter?

You can get the metal connector line at any parts store.......you use a compression fitting union to join the lines(cut the old line off) together....compression fittings are ok for fuel, since we are only talking 40-60 psi.....you CAN'T use compression fittings for brake lines, which are much higher.....
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Old 07-11-2015, 04:28 PM   #8
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does your fuel filter have a metal connection on the output, and metal on the input, or plastic on the input to the filter?

You can get the metal connector line at any parts store.......you use a compression fitting union to join the lines(cut the old line off) together....compression fittings are ok for fuel, since we are only talking 40-60 psi.....you CAN'T use compression fittings for brake lines, which are much higher.....

My fuel filter has a threaded output and a short quick disconnect on the input, where the nylon from the tank ends. Connecting new line from this end on the feed line isn't really a problem. The problem is that all three lines are corroded to hell... so I have at least two quick disconnects at the rear end of the return and vapor lines... and at least three... probably five (since the vapor line is actually two lines connected together) quick disconnects at the front of the car.

I thought about compression fittings, but quite frankly, I don't think one inch of these lines will be salvageable... and its not a big deal to just flare the new line for a more positive seal. I just wish I could source a bit of line that had a male quick disconnect on one side and anything (cut off, inverted flare, thread, etc.) on the other.

BKNJ
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Old 07-11-2015, 04:31 PM   #9
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Oh, BTW, I can follow the fuel lines most of the way around the car... but at one point the fuel and return lines go up and behind the plastic "faux firewall" cover. Is it easy to get those out of there? Or am I going to end up destroying the brittle, impossible to replace plastic cover trying to get the lines out and back in?

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Old 07-13-2015, 06:22 PM   #10
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You would think with all of the thousands of H bodies needing corroded fuel lines replaced, that the aftermarket would have a complete kit available. Something that covered Pontiac, Olds, Buick from tank to fuel rail.
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