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1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 08-22-2005, 11:53 AM   #1
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Default engine main bearings

Can main bearing side bolts on transmission side be removed with the engine in the car?
Thanks for advice. Got antifreeze in oil from failed upper intake and so washed the bearings out on the bottom end.........Can they be retorqued?
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Old 08-22-2005, 12:31 PM   #2
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Did the bearings come out? did you remove them? Or do you simply want to retorque?

They should not need to be retorqued... If they have too much clearance than you will need to yank the engine and do a freshen up of the bottom end?

Was the engine knocking or making any noise?

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Old 08-22-2005, 02:30 PM   #3
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I think something happened to my last reply.
The oil pressure changed markedly after the upper intake failure. The antifreeze in the oil washed the bearings and caused a lot of wear. Scuffing and loss of babbitt material. I pulled the rod caps to inspect them and the rear main. It also shows wear with loss of babbitt down to the copper in a couple of spots.
I will need to replace all the inserts and was hoping I would not have to pull the engine.
Is it possible or just a huge headache trying?
Do the rod and main bolts have to be replaced or can they be reused? The motor has not been apart before. The car has 120K on it. What are the chances the cam bearings are okay?
Thanks for the help.
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Old 08-22-2005, 02:36 PM   #4
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I'd say that the cam bearings are ok... I'm not there to look so can't promise you anything there.. But I'm doubtful that the cam bearings have been harmed...

I won't reccomend replacing the bearings with the engine in the car... and if the Crank is scuffed or has any marks or wear of any manner than the bearings you install will wear out fast... They may give you some time but how long will be the question...

I'd say if the engine is not knocking at all, and no bearings have spun, you might be able to have the crank turned .005 or .010 down and go with .005 or .010 oversized bearings... If the crank has grooves in it than it may be wise to install a crank kit( with bearings )...

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Old 08-22-2005, 03:13 PM   #5
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I agree 100%. Although it IS possible to do the crank kit with the motor in the car, it may prove easier and simpler to pull it and do it on a stand (inverted).
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Old 08-22-2005, 03:27 PM   #6
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Thanks for the help. The crank looks good from the bottom but until I can really inspect it I don't know for sure.
Is it possible to remove the 1-3 main caps with out the slide hammer adapter that GM uses? What about realigning the rear main seal housing? Is it a big deal without the special tooing?
How do you prelube these engines before starting them after the new parts are installed?
Thanks again.
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Old 08-23-2005, 12:32 PM   #7
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I don't think anything but pulling the engine makes sense. With the engine on the stand, you can disassemble it an mike everything, and know for sure what parts you need.

A bad crank will wipe out new bearings in a heartbeat, and you can't inspect the cylinder walls for scuffing correctly.

The oil pump is run off the crankshaft nose and is filled with vaseline while the engine is down. My manual says failure to pack it thusly may cause the pump not to prime.
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Old 08-23-2005, 12:45 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Dillon
I don't think anything but pulling the engine makes sense. With the engine on the stand, you can disassemble it an mike everything, and know for sure what parts you need.

A bad crank will wipe out new bearings in a heartbeat, and you can't inspect the cylinder walls for scuffing correctly.

The oil pump is run off the crankshaft nose and is filled with vaseline while the engine is down. My manual says failure to pack it thusly may cause the pump not to prime.
We have seen people replace the bearings before with results that were worse than what they started with...

If the oil pump is being reused, and has not be dissassembled, then it should be primbed and will not need to be packed... How ever if you rebuild an engine I do reccomend a new oil pump...

I have had the entire cover off of my 91, the oil filter and the like all intact, all I did was clean the cover and replace the front seal... Put the car all together and had imidiate oil pressure when we started it up... I have yet to see any issues with the gyrator style oil pumps, if the pumps aren't taken apart...

This can get very touchy when you tear an engine down... And again when you rebuild I do reccomend a new oil pump( The whole timming cover as a reman, so that all of the tollerances in the pump will be correct)

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Old 08-23-2005, 03:14 PM   #9
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Thanks for all the good advice. I will start marking and tagging all the lines and hoses so they will go back where they belong. I will go ahead and pull it out and get it on a stand so I don't miss anything.
Thanks
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Old 08-23-2005, 03:19 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by steller
Thanks for all the good advice. I will start marking and tagging all the lines and hoses so they will go back where they belong. I will go ahead and pull it out and get it on a stand so I don't miss anything.
Thanks
A small note, If you find a rod cap that is discolored, then it has either gotten very hot or the bearing has spun... If you see signs of either of these, pull the heads and have the rod/* resized, If a bearing has spun it becomes incredibly important that the geometery of the rod is checked and resized as needed or you will have another rod bearing failure... If all of the rods are the normal light brown color, and the bearings look good other than some normal wear than the rods should be ok...

we are here somewhere if you need to know anything else... Good Luck

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