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Old 04-26-2015, 01:12 AM   #1
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Default EGR tube and ECC/heater questions

Hello all, I'm new here.

I've got a '95 Bonneville 3.8L supercharged, 161000 miles. It'* suffering from low boost and poor gas mileage. I know my EGR tube is cracked on one end but I can't find a replacement; local dealer told me the part was discontinued in 2008. It'* a 24504158; there'* a diagram that shows it here: E.G.R. VALVE & RELATED PARTS-V6. Fits: Riviera | Tonkin Online Parts

The same tube for 2000 - 2005 3.1L and 3.4L is a Dorman 598-202. It'* long enough but has the wrong fitting on one end. Can I tap the hole in the intake, install an adapter and use this newer style tube? Or is there another option for replacing my original one?

Now for the heater part: I replaced the blower motor control module and the fan was working fine but the digital display shows about 100 degrees above ambient temperature. For example, today it was in the high 40s (F) here today but the ECC said exterior temp was 157 degrees? The fan is also no longer working, even when I disconnect the plugs from the control module and use a temporary jumper wire/switch. It does have power to terminal B of the small plug. I'm guessing the fan is now bad but I don't know if the issue with the ECC could have caused it?

This car was parked for a year or so before I bought it; I've been driving it about two months. It'* in pretty good shape, does run and drive well, other than the problems related to vacuum leaks.


Thanks,

Anthony
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Old 04-26-2015, 09:22 AM   #2
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Only 2 things I can offer. Try the junkyard or, use JB weld. Its good for high temperatures and low pressure environments. The EGR system is only exhaust pressure and you might see about 3-400 degrees at that area.
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Old 04-26-2015, 11:07 AM   #3
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I agree with Mike, those are about your only two options.....

As for the high temp reading, could have a bad ambient temp sensor, or control head......

As for the fan, did you give the housing of the fan a slight tap with the end of a screwdriver?

Disconnect the harness to the blower motor, and attach a test light to the connector(do not use a voltmeter).....key to "on"....cycle fan switch from low to hi....does the light get progressively brighter? If it doesn't, check each leg for power and ground with a test light....also check the connections in the harness and the blower motor for melting of plastic or arcing of the connectors....

When you disconnected the harnesses to the blower control module, with the key on, did you jumper, C1, term B(red) to C2, term A(purple), with the the blower motor still connected? this should have made the blower run at high speed, if the fuse was ok(can check this by attaching test light to term B and a good ground)....

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Old 04-27-2015, 06:52 PM   #4
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It would appear as if the part is available at RockAuto.com. Look under Pontiac - 1995 - Bonneville - 3.8 L Supercharged - Emission - EGR Line or EGR valve spacer plate.

Are either of these what you are looking for?
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Old 04-27-2015, 11:42 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by BK3 View Post
It would appear as if the part is available at RockAuto.com. Look under Pontiac - 1995 - Bonneville - 3.8 L Supercharged - Emission - EGR Line or EGR valve spacer plate.

Are either of these what you are looking for?

Thanks for looking but no, the EGR line they have listed doesn't fit. It mounts to the top of the spacer plate/EGR valve mount and goes up to the intake. RockAuto (and everywhere else I've looked) lists a Dorman 598-209, which is the L-shaped one they have shown but it'* about 1 1/4" too short.

My local dealer told me it (GM 2450415 was discontinued in 2008. I don't have Flickr set up or I'd post the pictures I took of my original and the Dorman 598-209 to show the difference in them. There'* a parts diagram here: E.G.R. VALVE & RELATED PARTS-V6. Fits: 1995 Buick Riviera | Tonkin Online Parts
that shows it pretty well.

Thanks,

Anthony
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Old 04-27-2015, 11:51 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tech II View Post
I agree with Mike, those are about your only two options.....

As for the high temp reading, could have a bad ambient temp sensor, or control head......

As for the fan, did you give the housing of the fan a slight tap with the end of a screwdriver?

Disconnect the harness to the blower motor, and attach a test light to the connector(do not use a voltmeter).....key to "on"....cycle fan switch from low to hi....does the light get progressively brighter? If it doesn't, check each leg for power and ground with a test light....also check the connections in the harness and the blower motor for melting of plastic or arcing of the connectors....

When you disconnected the harnesses to the blower control module, with the key on, did you jumper, C1, term B(red) to C2, term A(purple), with the the blower motor still connected? this should have made the blower run at high speed, if the fuse was ok(can check this by attaching test light to term B and a good ground)....

I won't have time till the weekend but I'll run through the test process again. No, I didn't jumper C1 and C2. I used two wires and a heavy toggle switch between B on the two-wire connector and C on the three-wire connector. Previously this arrangement let me operate the blower on/off, full speed only. I do have varying voltage on the signal wire from the ECC (B on the three-wire connector), so my instinct is that the ECC itself should be ok. I hope?

Thanks,

Anthony
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Old 04-28-2015, 12:42 PM   #7
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Jumping B to C would blow the fuse....you want to jumper B(red)C1 to A(purple)C2......double check your fuse for power at terminal B....
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