Driver front Axle question. CV Joint. - Page 2 - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 01-19-2007, 02:16 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by BLAZZ
All man i just got flash backs from reading this,

long story short, it took me 2 days in the cold, i had to use a atv to pop it out,
Force is the enemy in this case. It'* a quick movement to catch the ring off balance.
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Old 01-19-2007, 02:32 PM   #12
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Hey guys,
This is Frank'* son. My dads at my auto class right now and we still have had no luck . I'm going to print up all of your replys and show it to him, and see if it helps.

Thanks for all of the replys!

Mick
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Old 01-19-2007, 02:56 PM   #13
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Just like it was posted above you need to catch that snapring off killter... And the CV axle will come out..

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Old 01-19-2007, 03:41 PM   #14
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I appreciate all your replies, unfortunately we were unsuccessful with the amount of time we had which was 5 hours. As it stands now, the Bonne has to be left in the auto shop for 2 full weeks. Yes I'm without a car for 2 weeks and even then I still have to continue figuring out how to complete the procedure.

Background: at least 3 capable people were at hand
1. Auto teacher with advance auto knowledge.
2. 2nd auto teacher which is a Certified Auto Mechanic, in other words he has his license and worked at GM before being a teacher.
3. Me which has basic mechanical skills.
4. 25 students that was willing to help.

Before we tried to remove the part in the transaxle I removed the C clip so there would be a good amount of surface to grab.

This is a list of what we tried.
1. Rotated shaft, 60 degree'* and attempted to try to remove spindle from transaxle. repeated this procedure 6 times until we reached 360 degree again.
2. Tried to apply equal pressure to both side of shaft with both, equal, hard, swift, and even tried gentle motion.
3. Changed size of pry bar using, 12", 18", 24", 30" and used 2 bars equal length’* and even tried just using one.
4. Tried removing the male end of the shaft from the remanufactured shaft (to make it female end) with all pry bars available while having shaft in vise. 4 people tried this procedure.
5. Changed the angle of which we tried to apply pressure on both the part left in the transaxle and the CV shaft also.
6. Tried to apply equal pressure to the part in the transaxle (outward motion) while using a large 30" punch (on the center of the shaft) and while we had constant outward pressure as in to remove the part we hammered on the punch to apply instant pressure inward resulting in immediate outward pressure afterwards .
7. The last attempt was to use a puller both hammer type and pressure type but out of 12 different types of pullers they had none would grab due to limited working space, so the instructor started to grind down and modify one, but to no avail we ran out of time.



Keep in mind that we had a lot of manpower available and the car was in a large shop with lots of room on a full size hoist at 70 degree indoor temperature. The conditions were ideal.

Have a great weekend everyone.


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Old 01-19-2007, 04:06 PM   #15
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Wow.. that fought harder than I've ever heard.

I'm supposed to see my mechanic buddy sometime this weekend and will pick his brain for any other tricks etc.
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Old 01-19-2007, 04:23 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Maymybonneliveforever
I appreciate all your replies, unfortunately we were unsuccessful with the amount of time we had which was 5 hours. As it stands now, the Bonne has to be left in the auto shop for 2 full weeks. Yes I'm without a car for 2 weeks and even then I still have to continue figuring out how to complete the procedure.

Background: at least 3 capable people were at hand
1. Auto teacher with advance auto knowledge.
2. 2nd auto teacher which is a Certified Auto Mechanic, in other words he has his license and worked at GM before being a teacher.
3. Me which has basic mechanical skills.
4. 25 students that was willing to help.

Before we tried to remove the part in the transaxle I removed the C clip so there would be a good amount of surface to grab.

This is a list of what we tried.
1. Rotated shaft, 60 degree'* and attempted to try to remove spindle from transaxle. repeated this procedure 6 times until we reached 360 degree again.
2. Tried to apply equal pressure to both side of shaft with both, equal, hard, swift, and even tried gentle motion.
3. Changed size of pry bar using, 12", 18", 24", 30" and used 2 bars equal length’* and even tried just using one.
4. Tried removing the male end of the shaft from the remanufactured shaft (to make it female end) with all pry bars available while having shaft in vise. 4 people tried this procedure.
5. Changed the angle of which we tried to apply pressure on both the part left in the transaxle and the CV shaft also.
6. Tried to apply equal pressure to the part in the transaxle (outward motion) while using a large 30" punch (on the center of the shaft) and while we had constant outward pressure as in to remove the part we hammered on the punch to apply instant pressure inward resulting in immediate outward pressure afterwards .
7. The last attempt was to use a puller both hammer type and pressure type but out of 12 different types of pullers they had none would grab due to limited working space, so the instructor started to grind down and modify one, but to no avail we ran out of time.

Keep in mind that we had a lot of manpower available and the car was in a large shop with lots of room on a full size hoist at 70 degree indoor temperature. The conditions were ideal.

Have a great weekend everyone.
You ain't gonna want to hear this but: It may be that the heavy force applied earlier might have distorted the snap ring or the groove in the trans or the shaft that it rides in. If you are lucky, the ring might still be able to spin around in its groove. Sometimes, the ring will hang down exposing a larger surface area; it is for this reason that rotating a full half turn at a time may change things enough to allow you to pop the thing out.

From your description above, it appears that a constant pressure outwards was applied with a quick punch to give the inward/outward motion. If you get a chance to try this again, push and tap the shaft IN until it cannot move any farther inward. Place a lever in position on its fulcrum without moving the shaft outward at all, even without actually touching the tripot body; take a four pound sledge and strike the bottom of the lever. This will provide the sudden, strong outward movement that is necessary to compress the snap ring in its groove on the shaft and allow the shaft to pop out.

I've never had one as tough as what you are describing. A hammer-type puller should really do the job, especially if you first push the shaft inwards so that there is some inertia to compress the ring on its way outward, and if it fits so you get a straight pull on the shaft. That'* the type of puller GM recommends.

When thing does finally come out, it would be interesting to examine the groove and ring.
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Old 01-19-2007, 04:39 PM   #17
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OK, here is an idea to try before you pull the trans and disassemble it. Apply some kind of strong vibration to the shaft while you strike a lever as previously described to try to pop it. The vibration may help to align the snap ring where it needs to be to allow it to compress into the groove. Something like a very light jack hammer on the inboard housing may do it also. You need to make sure you don't get so crazy that you end up breaking the trans case or the side gear. You might consider holding the frame of a power sander against the tripot for example, in an effort to put the snap ring into motion before you whack it.

This is an extension of a technique that is used to turn a key in a sticking lock cylinder. Applying vibration to the key while lightly turning it, vibrates the tumblers allowing badly worn and even broken pins to align enough to allow the key to turn.

I don't know if it would work, just offering it up for consideration.
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Old 01-20-2007, 02:06 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bill buttermore
Apply some kind of strong vibration to the shaft while you strike a lever as previously described to try to pop it.
I had a similar issue when replacing the CV halfshaft on my old buick electra. I couldn't get the thing to budge, then i decided to try a pneumatic hammer on it it while my dad pried on it, the sucker then popped right out. Just make sure ur not too agressive with whatever u use to shake it loose- especially if you want to keep the CV joint (core?)

Hope this helps
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Old 01-25-2007, 10:57 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rustedmetal86
Quote:
Originally Posted by bill buttermore
Apply some kind of strong vibration to the shaft while you strike a lever as previously described to try to pop it.
I had a similar issue when replacing the CV halfshaft on my old buick electra. I couldn't get the thing to budge, then i decided to try a pneumatic hammer on it it while my dad pried on it, the sucker then popped right out. Just make sure ur not too agressive with whatever u use to shake it loose- especially if you want to keep the CV joint (core?)

Hope this helps
Thanks everyone for your great suggestions. I'm going to try to be at the school on Friday Feb. 02 to give it another try. The suggestions of Bill,and rustedmetal are similar and I think that'* the route I'm goint to try. This time I'm going to bring my own air tools, and I'll report back on my progress.
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Old 01-31-2007, 05:47 PM   #20
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It seems as though the 2 weeks that the Bonne has been hostage is now going to be available for me to work on again. This is where I'm in need of help again.


To summarize.
Driver’* side CV axle has been removed and the new one has a male end where it goes into the transaxle and the transaxle has a male end sticking out. I can't make both male ends meet even if you try to tell me my car is gay, it still won't work. It has been suggested that the male end sticking out of the transaxle has to come out, but it just doesn't seem to want to be removed even after many attempts. My question is, based on the FSM for a 95 Bonneville below; does it appear as if it'* supposed to be female end on the CV shaft going into the transaxle???


See below.















Do you see how the transaxle end is female, should mine be like that also?
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