The dreaded ECC temp display flash.
Alright guys, I just installed a new (used) programmer.
Changes:
-I don't get the ECC flash at startup anymore. Sometimes it'll flash while I'm driving around though.
-When I hit the buttons on the ECC to make adjustments, I can hear the programmer doing it'* thing. I can also hear the flaps in teh dash moving around to direct the airflow. So, I'm thinking hte ECC and programmer are probably okay?
However, the problem remains that nothing is actually working. I've tried the fuses and stuff, as well as checking connections. Maybe my blower motor is kaput?
Changes:
-I don't get the ECC flash at startup anymore. Sometimes it'll flash while I'm driving around though.
-When I hit the buttons on the ECC to make adjustments, I can hear the programmer doing it'* thing. I can also hear the flaps in teh dash moving around to direct the airflow. So, I'm thinking hte ECC and programmer are probably okay?
However, the problem remains that nothing is actually working. I've tried the fuses and stuff, as well as checking connections. Maybe my blower motor is kaput?
Hang in there a moment. You have regained some ground.
Can you hear the blower motor? (seems like you can't).
Next up is we'll have you test for voltage and amperage at the connector to the blower. (Firewall of engine bay. If you have both and only if you have both..good voltage and good amperage is the blower motor bad. If you have voltage with no amperage, then your blower control module is shot. If you have no voltage or amperage it'* most likely a relay or fuse.
Can you hear the blower motor? (seems like you can't).
Next up is we'll have you test for voltage and amperage at the connector to the blower. (Firewall of engine bay. If you have both and only if you have both..good voltage and good amperage is the blower motor bad. If you have voltage with no amperage, then your blower control module is shot. If you have no voltage or amperage it'* most likely a relay or fuse.
Well, I was just driving to school and I noticed that I do have some hot air coming from the dash, and it comes out of whatever vents I have the ECC set to use (defrost, face, etc.) but I'm pretty certain that the blower isn't going at all.
The air also seems a lot hotter than the 72 degrees the ECC was set at.
I guess I'd better get a multimeter or something if I'm going to be checking this stuff.
The air also seems a lot hotter than the 72 degrees the ECC was set at.
I guess I'd better get a multimeter or something if I'm going to be checking this stuff.
Alright, I haven't done anything to the car yet, but today something happened that I think bears mention.
It was kind of humid and wet, so I absent-mindedly turned on the defroster to send what little air I could out the vents and into the windshield, but I forgot to hit the buttons that shut the fan down (even though the fan is totally DOA).
About 5 miles into the drive, I was thinking 'What is that awful smell?' and then a few moments later I was like "ARRGH!" because smoke was pouring out of the defroster vents. Definitely a burning electricals kind of smell.
It was kind of humid and wet, so I absent-mindedly turned on the defroster to send what little air I could out the vents and into the windshield, but I forgot to hit the buttons that shut the fan down (even though the fan is totally DOA).
About 5 miles into the drive, I was thinking 'What is that awful smell?' and then a few moments later I was like "ARRGH!" because smoke was pouring out of the defroster vents. Definitely a burning electricals kind of smell.
I just popped the blower out.
Smells completely toasted, like the smell/smoke from teh cabin, only worse.
Time for replacement, I dare say.
I have the ECC, so do I need the resistor or the module? I haven't looked yet.
Smells completely toasted, like the smell/smoke from teh cabin, only worse.
Time for replacement, I dare say.
I have the ECC, so do I need the resistor or the module? I haven't looked yet.
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