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1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 03-27-2016, 01:13 PM   #1
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Default Coolant questions...

Hey all. I just changed my lower intake manifold gasket on my 97 SSEI for the 2nd time. No issues with the first but for some reason the rtv sealant in the corners didn't seal properly causing an oil leak. Anyway. I put in a 180 degree thermostat(my PCM is from zzp and is tuned for that). I'm curious as to the proper way to bleed it. Everything is already back in place. Please dont tell me that you don't have to bleed because you do. After arguing with my father in law the first time I changed my thermostat, I proved him wrong lol. I don't want to take the thermostat out again... also the top hose is hard. The car isn't overheating but the top radiator hose is hard and cool to the touch for about ten minutes after I start driving. Any ideas? I also changed my ball joints and I was looking for an honest answer as to whether or not I need an alignment. I know most cars you do but I wasn't sure with these cars. I just put 700 bucks in new tires on this beast and I don't want to destroy them. Any input is greatly appreciated
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Old 03-27-2016, 01:29 PM   #2
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Actually, you don't have to bleed it.



Just kidding.

Ideally, the thermostat should have had a small hole in it when you put it in (you would drill it if it didn't have it) that would have made life much easier. What you can do at this point however is once the car has some pressure and heat in it, crack open the bleeder screw on the thermostat housing to let air out. Once you get coolant coming out, or run out of pressure, close it and shut the car off, and as the car cools back down, it should pull from the overflow (make sure that has plenty in it). You can repeat this as many times as necessary, but it shouldn't take more than once or twice.
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Old 03-27-2016, 06:41 PM   #3
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Best tool for that job, I just ordered one myself.
Amazon.com: Lisle 24610 Spill-Free Funnel: Automotive Amazon.com: Lisle 24610 Spill-Free Funnel: Automotive

As mentioned though, the easiest way would be to drill a 1/16" - 3/32" hole in the 12 o'clock position of the thermostat flange, be sure the place you drill it isn't covered by the gasket or metal housing/manifold, then be sure to insert the thermostat with that hole in the 12 o'clock position.
Then you can fill coolant res, and rad, then squeeze the upper hose a few times, then cap the rad and run it for a couple of minutes, then crack the bleeder screw on the t-stat housing, close it once coolant pees out.

I'd do that a couple of times to be sure all the air is gone.
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