I'll be doing new front rotors and pads and bleeding the brake system on the '98 soon. I have the FSM, and I've read some of the write-ups dispersed throughout this forum...I'm surprised there isn't a brake procedure in Techinfo...

Anyway, I've got some Q'* about the needed equipment:

How big a C-clamp will I need to compress the caliper piston?

I have a helper to pump the brakes, so I can go cheap on the bleeder tool; will this bleed kit work?:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=37201

How much brake fluid should I have on hand to do a complete bleed on all four corners?

That bleeder kit works great, but it doesn't hold much. You'll have to empty it fairly often.

Get a quart of fluid so you can pump liberally. Flushing the old gunk out is a good thing. You'll want an 8-10" C-clamp and a small piece of metal or wood to press against the piston face. Since you're going to bleed anyway, you can crack your bleeder open a little to allow it to compress.

That kit does work pretty well, but I have been frustrated with it in the past. I gave it up and went to a mason jar with vinyl tubing. Just make sure you have brake fluid in the mason jar. However, I love this little gadget that I picked up on the shelf at Advanced Auto

http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductD...egoryCode=3479

If there are some miles on the car, think about replacing the hoses, they can become partially blocked.

Check out this topic on brake bleeding, speed bleeders, and why you haven't found it in Techinfo, Andrew.

http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/...ic.php?t=24009

I always open the caliper bleed screw before depressing the piston in the caliper. This prevents the accumulated crud that sits in the caliper from getting pushed backwards into the master cylinder and damaging the bore and seals. Ever notice how often guys replace pads, then six months later need a new master cylinder? I think this is a significant probable cause. I often use a big screwdriver and lever it against the top edge of the rotor and the center of the old inboard pad to push the caliper piston home. Hardly ever need a C-clamp.

So, no chance a 4" c-clamp would be big enough?

griff1455,

That piston compression tool looks pretty cool...may pick one up if the 4" c-clamp won't do it.
I do remember the jar and tube method from when I helped out dad as a kid...seems the "kit" is really just a glorified version of that, eh?

bill,

Are you saying that with the bleeder screw open, the piston will depress pretty easily?
Also, should I spring for a special "bleeder wrench," or will a standard open-end wrench be OK?

Finally, has anyone had any expeience with these one-way valve type bleeders?:
http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductD...egoryCode=3378
Or should I just stick with the old jar-and-tube?

If you have a second person, you don't need a bleeder. Your friend is your bleeder.

Have them start pushing and open the bleeder. They hold the pedal at the floor and let it up after you close the bleeder. Repeat 1,000,000 times.

As for using a piece of metal or block of wood to push the piston back... why? Use the old inner brake pad. In other words remove the outter pad and not the inner.. then push the caliper back in with the old inner pad.