Car Stalled, cranks but don't start - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 10-23-2007, 11:14 AM   #1
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Default Car Stalled, cranks but don't start

Earlier yesterday I was installing a remote starter and I didn't finish it. All the main ignition, accessory, starter, constant + wire, hood pin switch, and brake switch was hooked up. I didn't do the VATS bypass at this time. The module itself was not hooked to the wires neither. I went to school at 6:40 p.m. It was about 44 degrees outside and my gas hand was on the last notch. I didn't have time to go get gas since I was in a rush. I left school about 8:30 p.m. and was on my way to the gas station. Then my car cut off, I thought I ran out of gas so I pulled to the side, put on my hazards, and walked a dam mile to the gas station in the rain (wasn't mad though ). When I came back to the car fill the tank with a 1.2 gallons the car still didn't start . it would crank and almost start but then cut off. I don't know if it had something to do with the remote start wires or because I was running the car low on gas in the cold weather.

This happened to me before about a year ago. The tank was low, I turned a corner and it almost stalled. I parked the car went into my house for a while came back and went to the gas station, it started fine. Filled up at the gas station and the car wouldn't start or hold the start. I waited for about 2-3 hours then it started.

I can't tell if this is the same problem because my battery was weak from having the hazard lights on. Then everytime I tried to start the car I would just hear repeated clicking and interior lights would flash. If this is not a remote start problem would starter fluid have helped me out?
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Old 10-23-2007, 12:43 PM   #2
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Generally speaking, you're always taking a chance lettting your car run out of gas.

Assuming this is your '92 Bonneville (since you're in the 92-99 forum), there could be debris after this many years that gets swished up into the line as the gas level gets low. Also, sometimes you need to get in at least two gallons to get everything primed up. This has to do with empty fuel filters, empty and/or weak fuel pumps, clogging and general "contankerousnous".

The other thing to do is clean up your battery cables and check and clean grounds and ground busses. There'* a ton of threads on this lately. Even if that'* not your problem, it'* great preventative maintenence.

Personally, I wouldn't dare use starting fluid in a modern car. Depending on where you introduce it, you might be stripping grime from the throttle body into your engine, probably doing damage to your various sensors in there, creating a potential fire hazard, and the list goes on.

Good luck!
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Old 10-23-2007, 03:33 PM   #3
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I was tampering with my car for a couple of hours and I don't think it'* the same problem I encountered with low gas because it would've been started. I just cleaned the battery post since there was some green stuff on the ring terminal of my big 3 pos. alt. wire. Instead of running fuel injector cleaner is there a better "expensive" alternative to getting your fuel lines cleaned?
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Old 10-23-2007, 08:04 PM   #4
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I hope I found the potential problem to why it'* not starting. There are 2 +12 volt ignition wires in the harness I only used 1 for both the heavy gauge red wires that came with the remote start module. First I'm going to disconnect the 2 red wires from the module and connect the ignition wire back together to see if it starts. If it doesn't then I guess I'll have to look into the fuel pump, relay, or oil pressure sender.
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Old 10-23-2007, 11:26 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trigga_b
First I'm going to disconnect the 2 red wires from the module and connect the ignition wire back together to see if it starts.
That'* a good plan.

About your fuel line question: usually it'* the injectors, the fuel filter, or the fuel pump that can take punishment from a corroded fuel tank. And as far as I know, cleaners only work to a certain extent. Beyond that, then you have to start changing filters, checking fuel pressure, and physically examining your fuel pump and tank. But one step at a time. Hopefully it'* just the wiring issue that'* causing the problem.
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Old 10-24-2007, 03:13 PM   #6
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Well I'm getting pressure from the pump. I was wishing that I just left the gas cap off, but that wasn't the case. I unhooked most of the main wires from the remote starter and that wasn't the problem. I also learned how to hot wire my car while I was under there. ummmmm Next I'm going to see if I need more gas like slug suggested. Dam this 1 gallon gas container. Oh and I don't think I heard the fuel pump come on unless my hearing is damaged from my stereo system. But fuel did spray out when someone tried to start the car and I was at the valve.
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Old 10-24-2007, 05:28 PM   #7
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Still didn't start!!!!!! I checked the fuses by the ecm and none of them are blown. I have no stored codes. I notice the the brake light comes on as I try to start the car, does this mean anything?
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Old 10-24-2007, 06:29 PM   #8
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I was trying to check my TPS, but as I turned the car on (not running) I hear a light humming sound by the alternator. any ideas?
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Old 10-25-2007, 01:57 AM   #9
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If you haven't put more fuel in, that'* a must. Empty fuel filters, lines and pumps are just plain resistant to getting filled again. Especially when our cars are 10-20 years old and possibly having debris and weak fuel pump problems. Get about three or four gallons in if you can. The extra gravity might help.

Since you've been doing some wiring, aggressively go after blown fuses. In my '94 that means drivers side panel, passenger side hard-to-access area and underhood (which it sounds like you did).

You should check actual fuel pressure if at all possible. If you're getting a healthy spray, I suppose that'* good enough for side-of-the -road testing, but ..............

It sounds like you're still on the side of the road, so this gets to be a PITA, but if I don't say it, the gearheads tomorrow (and for good reason) are going to hound you about battery cables, ground connections, ground busses, and your ignition coill seating connection. Have you checked to make sure you're getting spark to all the plugs?

Also, since you've done some rewiring, go over in your mind again that you've set the wiring up as original (sounds like you have but.......)

If you're totally satisfied on the above points, then I guarantee what the gearguys are going to say:

Crank Sensor!

But maybe I missed something. Hopefully Boosty will give this some thought over breakfast tomorrow. If you've done anything else before about 6 AM, try to post in as much detail as possible.

Luck!!

(ps -- try "toeing" your ebrake pedal back up as far as it will go -- maybe it'* getting a little stiff. The humming noise -- I dunno, on some cars the blower is on just lightly (even in the off position) as a safety measure to keep a positive pressure in the cabin area, and keep out fumes)
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Old 10-25-2007, 02:11 AM   #10
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crank sensor is what I think or the oil pressure sender. I got like 16 tabs open on my browser for my problem and 13 of them are from the BC club. I found a similar post where he was hearing a light humming sound in the engine compartment which is the same thing I hear and it ended up being his crank sensor. My car is at home (**** a tow I had it pushed there, I tied clothes to my bumper so I don't get scratches). as for fuel pressure I'm going to disconnect the fuel tank side of my fuel filter, turn the key on and see if any gas comes out. I don't even hear the pump if it comes on. I haven't checked the 3 front plug wires for spark yet. After doing this I can determine if it'* an ignition or fuel problem. I hope I have time tomorrow because I got a descriptive essay thats due tomorrow and I haven't even started on it.

I can't see how to get to that passenger side "hard-to-access area." It seem like I got to remove the whole dam dashboard. Why wold anyone put that box of fuses and relay'* right there anyway .
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