Broken m-mount, no OD, low boost... related probems? - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 05-09-2003, 08:13 PM   #1
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Default Broken m-mount, no OD, low boost... related probems?

Dear bonny guys,

I have written on this a few times and have always gotten great responce, thanks!

The car just tunred over 160,000 miles yesterday. I drove it 630 miles from texas to my house in missouri. The whole way up it never went into overdrive? I have noticed, when the car is first started, like, in the morning, it will shift into OD, but after a minute or so it shifts out, and won't go back in. Since I'v had the car (5 months) it has had a broken motor mount. If you open the hood, it'* the one in front or your right knee. I can't find an aftermarket mount that fits, so I drive it around like an old lady untill I can get one that works. I'm wondering, are these two problems related? And to add to that, the car still won't get above the first notch on the boost guage (2.5psi) Is the motor mount effecting the boost? Or could my *-charger just be worn out? Is there something I can do to check my boost problem out? (Or can I just throw on a nice big centrifical type blower with a liquid intercooler?!?!)
While driving up here on my 8 hour trip, about 3 hours into the drive, if I would floor the car (it wouldn't down shift.... it was in 3rd already... so mount is okay) as soon as the needle showed possitive boost, the car would stutter and stall.... I couldn't hear any knocking... it was like the car was starving for fuel. As I drove it longer, it would take less and less throtel for it to start acting up. It got to the piont where I could barely go above idle. I wondered if I had just put bad gas in it. I pulled over at the worls largest McD'*, kept the car running and put 93 octane in it. I took off and didn't get any trouble at all, however, about 30 minutes down the road it started acting up again near full throtel, and the longer I drove, the less throtel the car would let me give.
Driving around town, it doesn't give me any problems at all though.
Those are the big three problems I can't figure out. No warning lights come on, so the robots at AutoZone (I work at CarQuest) said they couldn't scan it for me.
Thanks again guys!
brandon
p.*. My sister broke the volume **** on the radio. I can play with the equalizers to get a quieter sound, but the **** doesn't have any tension to it anymore. It has about the same 1/4 turn movement to it, but nothing happens when I turn it.... any suggestions?
And, my right blincker wont stay on and none of the steering wheel radio controls work.... are they an easy fix.... or a big deal?
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Old 05-10-2003, 02:27 AM   #2
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1. Simple things first..........buy new radio ****!

2. What symptoms do you have to make you suspect motor mount broken. Engine lifting up on accel?, can you see that it is broken? I'm puzzled that you can not find an aftermarket mount. They are typically inexpensive and readily available at any auto parts store. What part of the Ukraine do you live in.

3. Regarding the OD, I'm not certain of this but I believe engine vacuum typically helps control the shift point. When the system detects that there is less load on the engine, as when you get up to cruising speed, the tranny says, "okay I can get this puppy into a higher gear at a nice lumbering speed", so in kicks OD. I suspect that your engine power problems are keeping your vacuum higher (ie- you've got your foot in it more) at a point when it should be nice and low and therefore system prevents the OD from loading the engine down more.

4. The lack of engine power could be one or multiple problems. I think you need to find a friend with a decent set of basic tools and experience to check for proper air, fuel, spark, polution controls (EGR etc.), throttle position sensor, etc.

5. It sounds to me like your engine is running fine in cold-loop (prior to computer control takeover to lean everything out). The first thing I would go after is a sticking EGR valve. That is one device that can stick and may not set a code. The second thing I would check is Throttle Position Sensor. I'm not up on the SC so someone else might help here.

Hope this helps a little.
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Old 05-10-2003, 11:52 AM   #3
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Broken Mount.

My dad and I got under it one day to just check things out. From a stop the car felt like it had a big stall converter in it. As soon as we popped the hood and gave it gas, we saw the problem. That mount was ripped clean in two. Our problem now is the one we have just doesn't fit. We baught it from autozone. We bolted it to the chassis, and there was about a 1.5 inch gap between the motor and the mount. We couldn't get the screws on the top of the mount to ever reach the motor. I took it to a few mechanics who I devliver car part to (I work at a carquest... I'm a "oarts chaser") He said some mounts just don't fit, and that a dealer is the only option. He fooled with it on and off throughout his day (he wasn't charging me any money, so he only messed with it when he could) He said he bolted it to the motor, and it wouldn't reach the chassis either.

And about the OD, it funny you mentioned vacume... A few months ago it started ideling real rough, and take offs were pretty shaky too. We pooped the hood and found a disconected vacume line from the *-charger. There are three lines all stacked vertically... the top line was the one that was off. We popped it back on, and poof, smooth ride!
I have to go to work, thanks for the advice, I hope this helps!
brandon
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Old 05-10-2003, 03:22 PM   #4
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Brandon, what year is your car? Makes a big difference. Put that in your profile when you get a chance.

Most of your problems are unrelated. If I have your year and model, I can get you part numbers and prices for any mounts (or damn near any other part) on your car.

The **** on the radio can't be replaced. You have to replace the whole unit. When it looses tension like that, it'* a goner. Does your volume on the steering wheel still work?

Your trans is old enough it'* probably due for a rebuild, but you might try a filter and fluid change. Take it to a shop for a full flush. Pulling the pan will only drain about half the trans fluid. I just paid 80 bucks for a full flush.....to put you in the ballpark.

Your boost is another story. I'd say you have a problem with control.......Rotors don't 'wear out', and I'm sure it'* spinning up right. Not a nosedrive or coupler problem. I'm betting the poor boost is a result of a faulty component or leaky vacuum line on top of the SC. It COULD be the outlet gasket (the one on top of the lower intake, but I've never seen this before.
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Old 05-10-2003, 05:12 PM   #5
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Branden-

1. Funny about your motor mount. Purchased one for my '92 at Autozone; P/N163180 2800, $37. If you have a diff year, the P/N could be different.

2. Regarding OD again try these checks:
a. When she warms up, about what is your water temp registering? If too low, it could be thermostat stuck open. This will affect OD.
b. Check water temp sensor to see if shot; if so, it will not allow OD to kick in because system thinks engine is not hot enough.
c. Check Throttle Position Sensor to see if good or misadjusted; this may be messing with your emissions which will affect power, which will effect OD kicking in.
d. Check your EGR to see if operating properly.

Good luck
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Old 05-10-2003, 09:41 PM   #6
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Sorry about the profile, I tried once but couldn't figure it out...

It is a '92 Bonneville.

When it'* been running it likes to stay right above 220 deg. accoding to the guage.
The only time the car ever does go into OD is when it'* first started. Out in texas, right as you pull out of the driveway the speed limit is 75... so there'* no way the enging is near warm. My dad and I tried this many times (over a period of 4 months) In the morning, when you first start it, when you pull out onto the road and accelerate very easily - mild, right around 60mhp it will kick into OD. You can even pull it back into 3rd, and push it back to OD, and the car will respond. But after about a minute (max) it jumps out of OD, and doesn't go back unless the car has been sitting for a few hours.
And onto the other problem, no, none of my steering wheel controls work. In fact, I have to press pretty hard for the horn to honk too. The air bag has never gone off.
I'll check out the Vac. lines on the *-charger.
thanks
brandon
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Old 05-10-2003, 10:22 PM   #7
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Brandon, I put your year and model in your sig for you.

Your trans probably has enough miles on it that it'* due for an overhaul. A good flush and filter change may help for awhile. I'll leave the technical points to someone more knowledgeable.

Let us know what you find around the SC, and one of us will get back to you on that. We've got some good knowledge here about SC'*.
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Old 05-11-2003, 04:00 PM   #8
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Alright,
I'm going to have some transmission guys take a look at it for me sometime this week. And I'll do some snooping around the SC and see if I can find any bad hoses or unpluged stuff.
Today, on the way back from church, the car went into overdrive and never popped out, (well, of course it did when I slowed down and everything) But it drove fine the whole way home. None of the other gears are giving me problems... so I don't know about the overhual idea just yet (neither does my wallet, and that ittle thing is pretty persuasive!)
It has been sugested that I dump some of that trany cleaner into it and see if that helps, just to get rid of some gunk, or to get the seals to work better.
I'll let you know how everything goes!
thanks again,
brandon
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Old 05-15-2003, 11:29 PM   #9
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Okay, here'* the scoop...
The tranny guys scanned the car, and wouldn't you know, a bunch of trouble codes shot out. Turns out, if you look VERY closely, the check engine light has black tape over it. Like, someone took the dash apart and put the tape inside to cover up the light. So all this time the check engine light has been on. Anyways, three of the codes he mentioned were the cam sensor, quad driver Two, and a TCC. He said they were a few more, but these were the big ones. I'm guessing the cam sensor is the 2lb boost problem, and that'* why after a few hours of straight driving it would act up on me. And then either the TCC or the quad driver two is causing the other one to shift out of OD.
So what'* going on and where do I start??
talk to you guys later!
brandon
p.*. I went to auto zone to get the complete list of codes (when I picked up the car from the trany guys they had left already) unfotunatly they needed to count the check engine light in order to pull the codes, and since it'* covered in tape... maybe in a few days I'll have that tape off, and then I'll have the complete list
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