Bonnie will not start. HELP!!
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Posts like a 4 Banger
Joined: Jun 2007
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From: JACKSON, OH

97 SE, na, stock. I started the car & pulled it into the garage to install pads & rotors & everything was normal. I shut it off & then realized I need to pull up a bit so I could close the garage door. No start. dash lights dim, slow click on passenger side, fast click on driver'* side.
So far I have had the starter checked-Good.
Battery checked good. Cleaned battery cables & checked for voltage drop, cleaned connections at fuse block, alternator, starter, battery grounds.
I even tried the other set of keys just in case.
Battery voltage drops to between 5 & 7 volts when I try to crank.
Could it be the ignition switch? If so, how do I check? Could it be the BCM? What can I check??
So far I have had the starter checked-Good.
Battery checked good. Cleaned battery cables & checked for voltage drop, cleaned connections at fuse block, alternator, starter, battery grounds.
I even tried the other set of keys just in case.
Battery voltage drops to between 5 & 7 volts when I try to crank.
Could it be the ignition switch? If so, how do I check? Could it be the BCM? What can I check??
Is it actually 5-7 volts at the battery verified with an external voltmeter? If so, then about the only thing that can cause this is cables <unless the battery also has top posts, and you are testing there>, a bad battery, or a weak battery coupled with a dead short (and even then, there is usually a bit of drama with it).
If you have not actually verified the battery voltage with an external volt meter, and are simply reading the gauge (which I doubt, it doesn't go that low), then please check it promptly.
If you know the cables are not to blame, and you have verified the voltage drop at the battery, you may simply have to throw a battery at it. I hate suggesting throwing money at a problem even though you confirmed the battery is good, but I don't believe there is anything else it could be.
If you have not actually verified the battery voltage with an external volt meter, and are simply reading the gauge (which I doubt, it doesn't go that low), then please check it promptly.
If you know the cables are not to blame, and you have verified the voltage drop at the battery, you may simply have to throw a battery at it. I hate suggesting throwing money at a problem even though you confirmed the battery is good, but I don't believe there is anything else it could be.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Posts like a 4 Banger
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 122
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From: JACKSON, OH

FIXED! Is was the battery. The negative side terminal has an internal problem. Found it when I double checked voltage when I tried to start but this time I was measuring at the post & noticed it was only dropping 2 volts. Measured from post to side terminal under load & it was dropping 5 to 7 volts! 1st time that'* happen to me. I just added a post terminal for not. Any place to get OEM cables besides dealer? The neg. cable isn't a problem to find but no one seems to carry the positive cable.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Posts like a 4 Banger
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 122
Likes: 2
From: JACKSON, OH

They don't have the 3 wires coming into one in the right size. The one they have the 3rd wire is too small. I was also trying to avoid a splice but I guess I can't unless I buy a new set from the dealer at $100.
Rock Auto lists two positive cables in AC Delco:
AC DELCO Part # 4SX58 $23.99
AC DELCO Part # 2SX43CH $60.79
For discount codes: http://www.retailmenot.com/view/rockauto.com
Hope that helps!
AC DELCO Part # 4SX58 $23.99
AC DELCO Part # 2SX43CH $60.79For discount codes: http://www.retailmenot.com/view/rockauto.com
Hope that helps!
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