Looks like the three holes you already drilled are well centered. As long as you use a large enough drill you should be able to drill the head off without enlarging the hole in the control arm. When drilling hardened material slower speeds will work better than fast.

The new bolts that came with the ball joints are probably close to 1/2" thick on the threads, probably a little less. I chose the smaller drill bit since it'* the only one I could find laying around my brother'* place, and smaller is better than larger. I did center them well, I was happy with that There are two holes on the underside of the control arm (you can see them in the pics) that are not used for anything. They are actually a perfect size for the new bolts, so I think I will definitely try the sawzall, but if I find a drill bit to fit those holes in the CA I may give that a shot too.

Also, when I bolt up the new ones, I am going to have the nuts for the bolts on the TOP side of the control arm. I'm assuming this is the best way to install them, though no directions came with the new b-joints.

When I did the front ball joints on mine and had the rivets drilled out like you have, I got a 1/2 in wide cold chisel and hammer and sheared the bottom of the rivets off with that, and then took a large punch and pounded out the rivets from the bottom. I did this with the control arms on the car and it only took about an hour each side. By the way, the bolts on the new ball joints must be installed from the top with the nuts on the bottom of the control arm.

Flatlander

Thanks, that'* what I needed to know. I'm glad you responded.

NEW UPDATE:

Bought a 1/2" drill bit and continued to drill, got through the caps and pounded the rivets out...took 20 minutes for one side.

I just finished bolting up the whole driver'* side. Should be done by 4. Taking a lunch break. Everything'* easier when you have the right tools.

Yep, I had a good feeling that the loosy goosy front end was mainly the ball joint(*). The pass. side was very good though, but the left side was horrible. I finished at 4:45. Everything went back together with minor cursing on my part. The cotter pins were a bit of a pain I couldn't use a torque wrench on the bolts to the frame or the castle nut on the b-joint...no room to work with it. I did tq the b-joint to CA bolts at a tad above 50 ft/lbs. I tightened the hell out of the CA to frame bolts, and the castle nut is tightened just about as tight as I could by hand with a wrench. I haven't taken it our for a spin yet, I wanted to get cleaned up. I expect it to be much better. And I didn't take any pics yet...left the camera inside today

This next weekend I'll have to get an alignment. Hopefully it won't cost too much, and hopefully the car won't drive too bad before I get it done. It wasn't aligned well to begin with

Next up...brake fluid leak

Just took a test drive. It does need an alignment still but it really feels no less aligned than before. I can definitely say it drives much better and feels muuuuch more stable. I used to wiggle the steering wheel back and forth and feel VERY little response. The response is better now...doesn't feel "new" but maybe an alignment will improve that.

My TR ends seemed ok when I looked them over, but I may replace them anyway.

i remember doing ball joints on "gameover" that was PITA i did all 4 it took all day

I only did the two in front and it took me combined 13 hours in two days to finish If I do the back ones I'll know how to get it done at least. It went well today, but I still would rather not do these myself again. Though it would go a lot quicker if I do.