Ball Joint Replacement Review.. UPDATE..PITA with PICS! - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 07-14-2006, 11:33 PM   #1
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Default Ball Joint Replacement Review.. UPDATE..PITA with PICS!

I'm doing this tomorrow. I know the general procedure, it'* just a matter of getting through it with the tools I have and with the least amount of cussing possible. I can't wait any longer because I trust the front suspension less than my lying cheating ex-girlfriend.

I just have some questions on the torque specs as techinfo confused me. Ball Joint to Control Arm bolts are 50ft/lb, that'* simple, but the castle nut and control arm to frame bolts are what I need (I will be taking the CAs off to get the rivets out easier).

Is this all I need?
Quote:
Ball joint slotted nut (step1).........88 (In/Lbs)
Ball joint slotted nut (step2, 120)...41

Lower control arm rear (93-99).........91
Front mounting nut (93-99).............140
So is the castle nut 88in/lbs initially, then tighten 120*, and 41ft/lb?

Are those last two bolts on the CA to the frame? It says "lower control arm rear," so does that mean REAR bolt on the control arm?

I just want to make sure I have this correct. Thanks.

If all else fails, I'll tighten the everloving snot out of them.
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Old 07-15-2006, 02:10 AM   #2
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Default Re: Ball Joint Replacement Review

Quote:
Originally Posted by bonnie94ssei
Quote:
Ball joint slotted nut (step1).........88 (In/Lbs)
Ball joint slotted nut (step2, 120)...41

Lower control arm rear (93-99).........91
Front mounting nut (93-99).............140
So is the castle nut 88in/lbs initially, then tighten 120*, and 41ft/lb?

Are those last two bolts on the CA to the frame? It says "lower control arm rear," so does that mean REAR bolt on the control arm?

I just want to make sure I have this correct. Thanks.

If all else fails, I'll tighten the everloving snot out of them.
Pete...Castle nut is 88in/lbs initially, then another 120* (2 flats of the nut)..The 41 ft/lbs is the torque that is supposed to be reached during/at the end of the additional 120* turn. Doesn't really say what to do if after the 120* you have not reached the 41 ft/lbs.Maybe it means that the integrity of the threads or nut is not correct and MAYBE a new nut is needed... I really don't know.

The "lower control arm rear" does in fact refer to the rear (or back) nut/mounting bolt that connects the front lower control arm, through the bushing that is furthest to the back to the frame. (91 ft lbs.) The front-most nut/bolt that goes through the front-most bushing to the frame is 140 ft lbs.

Hope this helps!
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Old 07-15-2006, 02:31 AM   #3
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Thanks for clearing that up, I was pretty sure I had the right specs, I just wanted to confirm it. I'll try to get the tq right on the castle nut...I thought 41 ft/lb was a lot greater than 88in/lb, but if it only takes a 120* turn to get there I guess not. I won't worry too much if I think I have made it a bit tighter. I don't want it to come apart, yet I don't want to squeeze it to death. I'll worry about getting them off first and go from there.
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Old 07-15-2006, 02:35 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bonnie94ssei
Thanks for clearing that up, I was pretty sure I had the right specs, I just wanted to confirm it. I'll try to get the tq right on the castle nut...I thought 41 ft/lb was a lot greater than 88in/lb, but if it only takes a 120* turn to get there I guess not. I won't worry too much if I think I have made it a bit tighter. I don't want it to come apart, yet I don't want to squeeze it to death. I'll worry about getting them off first and go from there.
Yeah, you had it right. If it were me, I guess I would make sure I got to the 41 ft. lbs, even it it took a liitle more */turn to get there, but I am old and feeble, and easily amused, so you might not want to listen to me. If the castle nut snaps in half, you've gone TOO far.
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Old 07-15-2006, 10:41 AM   #5
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I'll try not to snap it in half.
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Old 07-15-2006, 12:18 PM   #6
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Alot of torque specs on the car require an initial torque, then another rotation in degrees, but this is the only one that should make another torque value at that point. The good news is that it'* retained when you're done, so it can't back off. The best thing you can do for this is to make sure the nut and stud are both very clean. You don't want any grit or grime while torquing. A VERY small amount of oil on the threads will give you more even consistent torque.
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Old 07-15-2006, 10:14 PM   #7
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HELP!!!!

This is such a PITA. I started at 11:30 this morning. I stopped at 8:00PM and all I got are two holes drilled through the rivets. The driver'* side was fairly easy to get the parts off, the passenger side took me a long time since the cotter pin was nearly impossible to get out. That nut alone took me over an hour. So right now, I have both Control Arms are off with b-joints attached. Keep in mind, drilling time was maybe 1 hour, the other 7 close hours was jacking up the car with my brothers HORRIBLE jack, taking old rusty parts off, and figuring out how to do things with the tools I had. Drilling two holes drained two 18 volt batteries.

All I need is to get the rivets out and reassembly will be a piece of cake. How do I drill these out?? I've gotten all the way through 2 rivets on just one b-joint, but I just drilled a hole through the middle of them. I picked a smaller drill bit than the hole I'd need because I didn't want to make a hole that was too big and ruin the Control Arms.

Should I use a larger drill bit? I can't see how doing what I have done will work, since the rivets are larger around, and mushroom on each end. Plus the plate is fused to the Control Arm. I wish I had money so I could just buy new control arms.

I HAVE TO GET THIS DONE by tomorrow before dark. What should I do? I have no money so buying/renting tools will not do. I'd take it to a shop but they'd probably charge me too since I don't have any 'connections.' I probably won't even be able to get an alignment until NEXT weekend.
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Old 07-15-2006, 10:20 PM   #8
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You got a sawzall handy, or available through a neighbor or something?

Ball joints are a 1 hr job per side with one of them babies.

Then you just pop the rivets out with a punch and hammer
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Old 07-15-2006, 10:34 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LakevilleSSEi
You got a sawzall handy, or available through a neighbor or something?

Ball joints are a 1 hr job per side with one of them babies.

Then you just pop the rivets out with a punch and hammer
Closest person I KNOW of with one is Boosty. If I had one I'd definitely be all good and done.

But I'm really hoping I get this done tomorrow. I'm exhausted now though. I didn't even have any beer on the job. :(
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Old 07-15-2006, 10:43 PM   #10
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Ask around for a sawsall....more ppl have them then you think

Ask a neighbor?
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