APN , DORMAN , MOTORMITE replacement upper intake ( UIM) - Page 2 - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 02-07-2008, 12:38 PM   #11
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Ok . I'll pass on the EBay stuff . I understand now why that the APN kit is preferable . The shop that I mentioned rearlier told me that they had used the Dorman units but were unaware of the APN units. I just hate to drive the car at all but have not other option (while I wait for the APN unit to be dellivered) knowing what is going on although the coolant loss is very slow ( and only a very slight barely noticeable odor ) . The shop that I mentioned rearlier told me that they had used the Dorman units but were unaware of the APN units. I presume that adding Bars Leaks pellets for a temporary band-aid (for a week or so of minimal local driving ) is a bad idea ?

-Thanks
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Old 02-07-2008, 12:59 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rkpatt
Ok . I'll pass on the EBay stuff . I understand now why that the APN kit is preferable . The shop that I mentioned rearlier told me that they had used the Dorman units but were unaware of the APN units. I just hate to drive the car at all but have not other option (while I wait for the APN unit to be dellivered) knowing what is going on although the coolant loss is very slow ( and only a very slight barely noticeable odor ) . The shop that I mentioned rearlier told me that they had used the Dorman units but were unaware of the APN units. I presume that adding Bars Leaks pellets for a temporary band-aid (for a week or so ) is a bad idea ?

-Thanks
If I understand your post correctly, the leak you have found is an external leak at the throttle body that showed up on a pressure test. External seeps of coolant are of small concern. If the leak were internal, then it would be much more important to fix it quickly. So, in your case, I would just keep the coolant level topped up until your parts arrive. And, when you have a coolant leak, it is important to check the coolant level by removing the cap and observing the level in the radiator with the engine cold, not just by looking at the expansion tank. Coolant should be all the way to the top of the radiator cap.

I would NOT recommend Bars leak or other stop leak additive. They can plug up heater cores and radiator passages if those are already partially clogged with deposits.

Local shops usually purchase parts from local supply sources at wholesale prices and charge the customer retail price for the part. For this reason, many shops will refuse to use customer parts or refuse to guarantee the work if they are unfamiliar with the parts they are given. This is understandable. Because most customers are in a hurry to get their cars repaired, mail order parts, even if they are far superior, are not a reasonable option for most shops.
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Old 02-07-2008, 03:51 PM   #13
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The APN also supplies injector o-rings. I think the 260 price is very reasonable. If you have never done it yourself, you are looking possible at a weekend lost to the project. It would be nice if you could watch the job being done. Make certain they put some RTV on the end seal/LIM gasket joints. Put on the metal gaskets, then put a blob on all 4 corners where the LIM gaskets meet the seals. THEN place the seals, add 4 more blobs in the same spot on top of each corner, and finally place the LIM itself. Use copper RTV (high temp orange color stuff)
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Old 02-07-2008, 04:24 PM   #14
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Copper RTV a must ? II already have a can of Permatex Right Stuff . - Thanks
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Old 02-07-2008, 05:53 PM   #15
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I've never used that product. Most everyone here has recommended RTV but I'm sure you'll be ok. If not, someone will chime in.
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Old 02-07-2008, 05:58 PM   #16
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Quote:
the Right Stuff for Imports Gasket Maker
The Right Stuff for Imports Gasket Maker was specifically designed to perform under the higher torque loads caused by engines with closely spaced bolt patterns (typically import vehicles, particularly Japanese). It is is blowout resistant, allowing leakproof gaskets to be made and put into service in just one minute. Sensor-safe, this product seals instantly, forming a reliable, long lasting elastomeric rubber gasket that outperforms precut gaskets. OEM specified by Honda, Nissan and Mazda. This product is resistant to powertrain fluids (oil, coolant, and ATF) and operates in environments to 450F (232C) continuous; 500F (260C) intermittent.


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Permatex High-Temp Ultra Copper RTV Silicone Gasket Maker
For 4-cylinder, turbocharged or high-performance engines. The most advanced, high temperature RTV silicone gasket available. Sensor-safe, low odor, non-corrosive. Superior adhesion. Three times more oil resistant than conventional silicones; eight times more flexible than cut gaskets. Temperature range -75F to 700F intermittent; resists auto and shop fluids and vibration. By Permatex.
It is up to you, but I would go with Ultra Copper since it is the norm around here.
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Old 02-07-2008, 06:54 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Barry
The APN also supplies injector o-rings.
Thanks for the update, Barry. They keep adding goodies to the kits all the time. Good for us!
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Old 02-07-2008, 07:03 PM   #18
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yup. got o-rings with mine too !
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Old 02-07-2008, 08:07 PM   #19
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FYI... The Doorman intake also comes with the injector o-rings. I use Right Stuff (black RTV) on just about all engines that I have build and repaired and have never had a problem. But, I use the copper stuff on my Harley. To each their own. Either one will work fine.
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Old 02-07-2008, 09:34 PM   #20
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Throttle body ( TB) gasket too ?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Barry
The APN also supplies injector o-rings. I think the 260 price is very reasonable. If you have never done it yourself, you are looking possible at a weekend lost to the project. It would be nice if you could watch the job being done. Make certain they put some RTV on the end seal/LIM gasket joints. Put on the metal gaskets, then put a blob on all 4 corners where the LIM gaskets meet the seals. THEN place the seals, add 4 more blobs in the same spot on top of each corner, and finally place the LIM itself. Use copper RTV (high temp orange color stuff)
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