Anyone have a trick or tips for changing engine coolant - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 06-25-2006, 10:12 AM   #1
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Default Anyone have a trick or tips for changing engine coolant

Hello all , as the topic says its time to do a coolant fluch snad put new stuff in, whats the best way to do and were is the rad drain located? thanks any good products to use would be a help also, thanks everyone
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Old 06-25-2006, 10:15 AM   #2
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Radiator drain is located at the d/* lower corner above the bumper.

Best way to do it is to drain out the radiator and by some flushing stuff, and follow the instructions on it, run the car with a hose running into the radiator and a radiator hose off to flush out the block.

Sorry if this seems a lil confusing, I just woke up :P
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Old 06-25-2006, 11:46 AM   #3
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if u drain it from the petcock on the lower right side when standing in front of the car you will be their for a while, i would get a big bucket and pull the hose on the bottom left side much, much faster
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Old 06-25-2006, 03:07 PM   #4
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I agree - leave the radiator drain alone, and drain most of the rad and engine by removing the lower radiator hose from the radiator. You can buy a Prestone Flush and Fill kit at Wal Mart for about $5, and just follow the instructions to get a pretty decent flush. A couple of 5-gallon buckets and some lengths of old garden hose and clamps are helpful to route and catch the old coolant while you flush. In most municipalities, it is better to pour the used coolant down a sanitary drain as the sewage treatment plants are equipped to handle ethylene glycol. Most storm drains outside drain directly to rivers and streams where the stuff may cause environmental damage.

When you have it all flushed, use the following procedure to minimize the possibility of trapped air in your engine. Although the method ws developed with the L-36, it is applicable to your L-67 as well.
_______________

This method was developed by trial and error and has been found to be effective to minimize the possibility of trapping air pockets in the L36 3800 engine cooling system. Trapped air could allow for increased temperatures around the hot EGR passage in the plastic upper intake manifold, leading to failure of the manifold, internal coolant leaks, and severe engine damage.

When refilling the engine and radiator with coolant after repair work, remove the radiator cap, then remove the thermostat and drill a small (1/16" - 3/32") bleed hole in the thermostat flange. Check the brass bleeder on the upper radiator hose fitting to make sure it can be opened and closed easily. With the thermostat out, begin filling the engine with coolant at the thermostat housing until the coolant reaches the lip where the thermostat seals. Do not install the thermostat or the upper hose yet. Fill the radiator slowly at the cap opening with coolant. You should see and hear air bubbles disturbing the surface of the coolant in the intake manifold at the thermostat housing as they are pushed up and out of the engine. The coolant level will eventually start to rise in the manifold as the coolant in the radiator gets high enough. Install the drilled thermostat, positioning the bleed hole at the 12 O'Clock position. With the thermostat and upper radiator hose installed, pour additional coolant into the radiator slowly, until it rises to the overflow hole in the radiator neck several times. Allow several minutes each time for the top hose to fill and for air to bleed past the small hole in the thermostat flange. Repeat slowly filling at the radiator until the level in the radiator remains steady for five minutes. Fill the overflow tank two or three inches above the "full hot" mark.

Start the engine and bring it to operating temperature. If possible, take the car for a drive. You will be able to tell when the thermostat opens when the top radiator hose gets hot. With the engine at temperature and idling, open and close the bleeder screw to expel any air. Even if only coolant is expelled when the bleeder is opened, wait a minute or two and try to bleed it a couple more times. Shut off the engine. If the cooling system has no leaks, the level of coolant in the recovery tank will drop as the system pulls in coolant to make up for displaced air and thermal contraction. Bring the level in the recovery tank back up to "full cold" if needed and observe the level daily until it stabilizes.
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Old 06-25-2006, 03:41 PM   #5
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thanks for the tips and info, project is underway, thanks all
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Old 06-26-2006, 10:28 AM   #6
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[quote="LakevilleSSEi".. run the car with a hose running into the radiator and a radiator hose off to flush out the block.[/quote]

Running w/o the bottom radiator hose will starve the waterpump and would not be a good idea. Let'* put this one on the shelf as Nate just woke up.
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Old 06-27-2006, 01:08 PM   #7
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Just to add to it.. I would not recommend using any tap water at all.. too much contaminants from the munincipality. Use distilled water only.
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