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1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 06-04-2004, 03:50 PM   #21
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Default Re: key

Quote:
Originally Posted by SSEBONNE4EVA
Yes someone on the board had that exact same starting problem.
I think it turned out to be a bad key.
I have had that issue before in my 93 that'* why I threw it out there. I cleaned the pellet with an eraser and then gently wiped it once with a little contact cleaner on a fresh paper towel. Problem hasn't occured since with either key.
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Old 06-04-2004, 05:08 PM   #22
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i was also told someting about a bad passkey system by the dealership.

a pic of the solinoid would be cool...

and i graduated yesterdaya dnw ent tot he all night party for my school... got out at 5 am and it was cool and ncie out, dew on my car. (alos crayon " '05 " or " '06 " ont he windows and hood, somepoor sucker witha new white taurus got all his windows and hood and truck COLORED blue with crayon. it was no longer a white car... kidna funny but anyways...) so it was cold outside and it started up first try, and after wakign up to a 78 degree day it took like 20 mins to start it up.

do you think the temperature is a factor in this?
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Old 06-04-2004, 09:54 PM   #23
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Check the relay under your seat. It looks like two forks joined together. I know two people that had a start problem like that. ( a93 and a 94) They replaced the relay and no more stranded problem! It controls some electronics of the car and when it becomes loose the car will not start until it gets moved back to a good connection! Just getting in and out of your car can break the connection if it is bad. Might help....if all connections are good under the hood.
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Old 06-06-2004, 01:18 AM   #24
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ok i tried jiggeling the stuff under my seat but no work... i still havet ot urn the key a couple tiems, get outta the car, let it sit 3-5 mins and then try it again.

after turn the key and no luck i got out and the security light was on for 3-4 mins? then went out... is this what you guys wanted to know?
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Old 06-06-2004, 01:11 PM   #25
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Sounds like the car is not sensing the right resistance in your pass-key resistor in your key. Do you have another key you can use?
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Old 06-06-2004, 01:44 PM   #26
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Another key, or clean the contacts IN the ignition switch and ON the key, and try again. Another key is best, as Fuddy mentioned. If that key you have didn't used to do this, we can assume that the actual pellet is correct. Go to a locksmith (not all, but most professional locksmiths can do these) and have another made after they measure that key you have.

Don't go to the dealer for this. They'll rip you.
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Old 06-06-2004, 10:56 PM   #27
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so get a new key? can i gotot he dealer and say this one is acting up and return it and have them make anew one for free?? last time it costed $51...
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Old 06-07-2004, 01:21 AM   #28
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Is your existing key under warranty?
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Old 06-07-2004, 11:06 PM   #29
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yea it should be? i called thema nd they said if the car starts at all, ITS NOT THE KEY.
so now i giveup... i think im goign ot give ti to them for $75 and have them run tests and diagnostiic it... im drivign my dads big ole chevy 1500 and its sucking up gas wiht my new job i have to drive alot...

any other suggestions other then giving it to the dealership?
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Old 06-07-2004, 11:50 PM   #30
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If it'* the original key, it will not be covered by warranty. Unfortunately the dealer has also given you some bad advice too. Review our previous suggestions.
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