All 3 Ignition coils died at the same time? (Updated Aug23) - Page 8 - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 08-01-2006, 04:43 PM   #71
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If you have an impact wrench, the crankshaft bolt on the harmonic balancer will zip right out. If not, you will need to remove the flywheel cover and find a big ol' bolt or heavy round-shaft screwdriver to slip through one of the flex plate holes and jam against the block. That'll hold the crank so you can undo the bolt on the HB end. You will also need a harmonic balancer puller (rent or buy) and three 6mm fine thread bolts about 3" long (almost the same as 1/4 x 20) and the appropriate washers. The threaded holes for the HB puller bolts are hidden down in the slots on the HB. It can fool you if you don't know where to look.

I would wait to see if the crank sensor does the trick before doing the cam sensor. BTW, the only reason for pulling the front cover is if the interrupter magnet for the cam sensor is AWOL. You can check this by pulling out the Cam sensor pickup, and shining a flashlight on a mechanic'* mirror as you turn the crank by hand looking for the little magnet in the cam gear. If all you find is a hole in the cam gear, then you will need to install a new interrupter magnet. Padgett has described a method for changing it without removing the cover, but I kinda like to know where all those little parts ended up and make sure they are out of harm'* way.
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Old 08-01-2006, 05:35 PM   #72
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Thanks Bill. I think I have an impact wrench actually, just gonna need to swipe my dad'* compressor to run it....

I'll check for the interrupter when I'm in there.

Stay tuned, I'll probably do this Sun/Monday, as it'* a long weekend for us Canucks coming up...
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Old 08-02-2006, 10:15 AM   #73
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If your PCM is working correctly, troubles with the cam sensor should set a code. And in your car, a bad cam sensor or interrupter should not prevent it from starting, although with a bum cam sensor you only have a one in six chance of the car running at peak performance.

On the other hand, there are lots of reports of crank sensors going bad without setting a code, and a bad crank sensor can cause no start.
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Old 08-07-2006, 09:47 PM   #74
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Argh...

The crank bolt appears to be stuck/rusted tight. Just spent 2 hours working at it with a friend, and not a smidgen of movement.

I'm spraying the bolt with WD40 to try and get it loose, but have had no success yet. Tried an impact gun as well, but it doesn't look like the one I've got has enough torque. Gonna look into renting a beefier one.

Any advice on getting this sucker out?

Confirmation of which way (clockwise or counter) would be good too, since the book doesn't say if the bolt is reverse threaded.
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Old 08-07-2006, 10:02 PM   #75
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WD-40 isn't going to help you. Soak the thing with liquid wrench over night. The crankshaft balancer bolt is right hand thread. You may have to tap (hard) around the perimeter of the balancer with a plastic mallet also to help break it free.
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Old 08-07-2006, 10:21 PM   #76
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Ok, I'll run over to "The Home Despot" tomorrow and grab some...
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Old 08-08-2006, 10:10 AM   #77
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Here'* how I do tough ones by hand. Pin the flex plate as previously described. Make sure the pin is strong stuff, as big in diameter as possible, and nice and tight against the block. After removing the wheel and splash shield, set up a jack stand to support a long 1/2" drive extension with the 30mm (?) 6-point socket on the crank bolt. That keeps you straight on the bolt. This is not optional.

Here is the same setup for removing the backwards bolt on the trans:
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Then I typically use a 15" long flex handle over which I slip a 4-foot long cheater bar. Mine is heavy wall rectangular bar stock, but schedule 40 black pipe 1-1'2" would do nicely also. Set it up so the bar is at about 10 O' clock and push down on the end of the bar. That will give you an honest 800 ft-lb of torque if you are 200 lb like me. Still won't come? Stand on the end of the bar and bounce up and down while a friend provides the "impact" with a 4 or 8-pound sledge not too close to your feet. With that kind of force, something will give, and most often, it is the bolt breaking free.

The socket must fit tightly, is better if 6-point and must be held straight in line with,and all the way down on the bolt. Otherwise, with the kind of force you are applying, you will round the edges of a stuck bolt. If you have one, a breaker bar is a better choice, as flex handles will spread and break under this kind of force. And finally, 3/4" drive would be ideal. You should be able to rent the 3/4" drive stuff for not too much $.

Mark is right about the WD-40. It is useless as a penetrant. I like PB (Power Blaster penetrating oil) - it is very good stuff. When you get the bolt out, clean it up and apply some anti-seize to it so the next guy doesn't have to work so hard. You never know- it could be you!
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Old 08-08-2006, 09:56 PM   #78
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Holy cow, Buttermore... that jackstand idea is genius! Why didn't I think of that? Excellent info!
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Old 08-08-2006, 11:25 PM   #79
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bill buttermore
Really great idea posted by bill....
I bought a breaker bar with a 3/4" drive, but the socket I've got is 1/2" drive, so I've got an adapter on it. If the oil doesn't work, we were thinking our next step would be getting some torque bars, but this seems like it would work really well.....

I'll be putting on the liquid wrench after I eat supper...here'* hoping...
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Old 08-08-2006, 11:37 PM   #80
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Arbelac, my 93 didn't fight me too much. The 95 was a BIOTCH. I used a 3' 'cheater bar' on a 1/2" drive with a steel wedge holding the flywheel and it came loose.
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