I read that thread as well. Difference is, I've had the throttle body off and checked the UIM...all good there.

I'll try this tonight (I hope..) Is, the FP relay under the passenger side cover or in the engine maxifuse bay?

Whew!

If the same as my '95, it is under the passenger side kick panel, lowest installed relay on the left side.

A bad MAP wouldn't stop it from starting would it?

I'm going to try the plug swap and fuel relay pull after dinner here...

I've got a '96 PCM laying around collecting dust, so if you can't find one, I'd be glad to sell you my extra. And yes, they are like the '97 computers and have a removeable knock module or whatever that needs to be moved from one ECM to the other.

I will tell you for sure that the computer won't work with your car when you get it, and you'll need to have a dealer (or anyone with a Tech-II and a subscription to GM'* service who'* name is excaping me right now) flash it with the proper programming.

About the MAP, it shouldn't stop the car from even firing a little, but you could try to unplug it and see if it makes a differance. :?: Couldn't hurt.

At your mileage (85k) I would doubt that your timing chain jumped time. You've got fuel, you've got spark, and it still won't run. Other than what everyone has said, I'm stumpped.

So I tried it. No dice, not even a cough.

I also picked up a cheap basic multimeter - this one gives me readings for the secondary terminals:

3/6 - 5.99Kohms
2/5 - 5.74Kohms
1/4 - 5.82Kohms

I also repulled the 2/5 coil and checked the primary, and the resistance tended to jump/flux quite a bit.. anywhere from 0.16 ohm to 0.6 ohms. Are we just supposed to check the highest value, or is it supposed to be steady on the primary windings?

I may take you up on that. Question: Does the PCM/ECM have to be in the car for it to be flashed or can it be flashed before installation?

Your secondary readings all look good. The primarys should also give a constant reading. Try checking all three primarys making sure the terminals are clean.

I tried using the 194 bulb to check for power going to the injectors. The bulb would 'pulse' while the engine was running. It never went on or off all the way. Trying this should show if the injectors are staying open or not. It'* easy to do & should only cost a dollar or two.

If you have a timing light we could test to see if it'* sparking near top dead center.
While you're checking the coil resistance see if you can get a reading from the engine temperature sensor. You can also check the voltage from the throttle position sensor.
From other posts I've read it sounds like some auto parts stores can test your ICM.

Consider getting yourself a code scanner. It may tell us whats wrong & save you the dreaded trip to the dealer.

Thanks for pointing that out. I forgot that when I tested my injector voltage the light never totally went out.

Arbelac - As far as I know, the PCM must be in the car to be reflashed. The dealer will do various procedures involving key-on and key-off ignition positions, and the PCM must be receiving input from the car.

Also, I would like to point out that we're suggesting some troubleshooting tips that require you to buy different tools and spend some of your hard-earned cash. While it can get expensive to acquire the right diagnostic tools to properly do a job, I want to encourage you to keep looking into this problem yourself. Sometimes it can seem like it would be cheaper and easier to take the car to a mechanic, but I promise you'll thank yourself afterward for spending money on diagnostic tools and learning about the workings of this car. Don't be put off by the investment now, because it can potentially save you a bunch of money down the road. If you've got the time and energy to keep chasing these gremlins, keep at it.

There'* a way to, you just need to have a Tech-II in adition to some pricy off-car programming equipment, so it'* possable, but not likely your dealer would have the right stuff to do it.