1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

air mix calibration

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Old Feb 12, 2008 | 12:45 AM
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Default air mix calibration

Ok so i have fixed my air mix actuator after it left me with no heat in one of the coldest weeks in minnesota and then having to wait a week and a half for it to get to my house after ordering it from gmpartsdirect, but anyways such is life. My question is what tools do i use to calibrate the thing and how far should the door arm go past the hole for it to be full heat. i understand you must command full hot from the ECC and then move the door all the way to the passenger side and snap the rod in. I just need to know what tools do i use to do this since the hole is about the size of a nickel and i dont want to loose the rod and have to tear apart my dash again although now i have the whole process down to about an hour its still not fun. I have searched many of the threads about this already but this part was vague on what tools to use. Thanks for your help

Matt
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Old Feb 12, 2008 | 02:32 AM
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I use two long screwdrivers. Nothing more should be necessary.
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Old Feb 12, 2008 | 09:43 AM
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I used only one screw driver. Aligned the rod on "v groove" in top of the connector and popped the rod back into the connector.

As far as the door placement, the FSM says to move the door all the way to the passenger side. I have just used the screwdriver on the connector to move the door as far as I could toward the passenger side without forcing it, then did my best to pop the rod in place without altering the position.
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Old Feb 12, 2008 | 01:26 PM
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thanks i tried it and it worked. The first time i tried it when i put it together i lost the rod and had to tear it apart again. this time i just popped it out gently with one screwdriver and pushed the door over and pushed down gently on the rod to snap it back in. It took a total of about five minutes. Thanks guys for the help shes cooking now
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Old Feb 12, 2008 | 01:32 PM
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Great to hear!

That rod and connector can be very tricky. The rod and "v groove" on the top. If they aren't close enough, it can get very frustrating. I have had a couple of frustrating moments where the groove would move while I was trying to pop the rod in. Taking it slow and easy and carefullly lining up the groove and rod and a simple "pop" is all it usually takes, though.
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