Not sure how well the A/C is working at this point. Does the compressor run OK?

If your air mix door is stuck, you won't get any cold in the car. With the AC running, do the condensor tubes under your hood near get cold and wet?

I dont know what the compressor looks like.

Near the strut tower on the passenger side is a canister with black insulation on it. There are 2 pipes coming from it. They may or may not have a protective black plastic coating. They run to the front of the car along the passenger side of the engine. Between the Engine and the inside of the fender, coolant recovery tank, and battery. They're aluminum.

If these get cold and moisture condenses on them, but you still don't have much cold in the car, it can be a blocked evap core or a stuck/busted/faulty airmix door. Since you have the code for the door, that'* likely your culprit.

I'd suggest checking for what I mentioned, and if it'* cold, but not in the car, get Chilton'* #28200 from whatever auto parts store in your area sells it. You're really going to need it for this one. Should run you about $15. There are some posts here on replacing the airmix actuator. Try a search and read up to prepare yourself for the work.

Thanks I'll check it tommorow.

I had 40 error which is the same problem as yours except the "1" in front of yours indicates that this ia a history code where mine was a current problem. It did not prevent the AC from coming on but it caused the display to blink even after clearing the codes. I used the procedure in the service manual to re-calibrate the air mix circuit.

No more blinkies!

I couldnt figure it out so I took it to our local shop. They found out it was some bad wires and 20 bucks later Im in icytown.

For 20 bucks? That was worth it. Glad you got it running! I'm assuming wires to the airmix actuator inside the car?